“I am not one of those crazy designers,” said Paula de Andrés, the 26-year-old designer of Pol, which she founded in February 2013. “I’ve got my feet on the ground. I have a different product and I’m looking for a serious commercial platform to build a brand and a business. I don’t want to be just a media victim.”
Dresses, which generally run upward of $200, sell “a little” to the domestic market, while an e-commerce site targets potential clients abroad. Her online offer includes dresses, tops and playsuits with prices ranging from $142 to $215. She keeps a little stock, she noted, but generally makes merchandise to order, from sizes XS to XL. Locals can come to her atelier for made-to-measure service.
So far, she has customers in London, Finland and the U.S., where Lady Gaga’s team picked up a snap-closure black maillot swimsuit and a below-the-knee dress with transparencies — both from last spring — for Gaga’s “G.U.Y.” video released in March.
Wearing a tank and knee-skimming black skirt from a local street market and multicolor Nike sneakers, the designer said for September’s Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid, she’s working up 25 pieces, mainly dresses, a few pants and skirts, jumpsuits and a crisscrossed top with hand-embroidery. One of her highlights will be a baseball jacket with Fortuny-like pleating, a pastel blue zipper and chartreuse lining. Pleats are the season’s leitmotif, along with techie-type fabric and texture mixes, straps, sexy open backs, in a palette of mainly white and gray.
Pol (which is also de Andrés’ nickname) will be showing for a third season in Samsung Ego’s up-and-comers catwalk show, which helps her image, she said.
“Little-known designers are generally ignored in Spain,” she said. “Nobody pays much attention to us, but Ego’s good press is a start.”
After graduating from a three-year fashion course at the Madrid branch of Instituto Europeo di Design, she interned with local designers Antonio Alvarado and Moisés Nieto (who shares a runway show at Madrid Fashion Week), but in general, “Spanish fashion is boring. It’s either Inditex or muy señora [dowdy].”
Current inspirations are Alexander Wang and Alicante, Spain-based designer Juan Vidal, “who is building a business and I admire that.”
De Andrés works out of a diminutive all-white atelier — “I think better with white because nothing gets in the way,” she said — in Madrid’s buzzy Chueca neighborhood with floating antique wooden doors and a pair of blood-orange chairs the only spots of color.
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)
@heriethpaul and @gracebol have a moment on the @victoriassecret fashion show 2017. See every look from the runway on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo) #wwdfashion #victoriassecret #VSFashionShow
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia