Five new and noteworthy brands from the upcoming men’s shows in Italy.
VALEXTRA In Milan, Valextra will unveil its first men’s collection designed by Álvaro González, who was appointed creative director of the Italian luxury accessories label in July.
“With his great experience in the accessories business, Álvaro succeeded in creating bags and accessories showing clean and simple lines, in keeping with the brand’s heritage, but with a modern and contemporary look,” said Valextra chief executive officer Marco Franchini. “The real challenge is to rethink conventional objects with a functional and modern approach.”
For fall, González designed a chic collection of bags, briefcases and small accessories, all combining a sleek, minimal design with great functionality.
The lineup includes the “My logo” range, consisting of calfskin soft travel bags with detachable straps, zippered pockets and laptop compartments, while the luxurious “Sherlock Holmes” is a briefcase with a special hidden closure. González also designed a zippered, expandable shopping bag, a retro-inspired calfskin glasses case and a zippered document case embellished with a button covered with leather.
Breaking the dark palette of brown and blue-green tones, a range of wallets and credit card holders come in a bright geranium red.
Valextra, which is closing 2013 with sales up 30 percent compared with 2012, is slated to open about five freestanding stores in key locations this year, including London, Paris, New York and Milan, where the brand already counts a flagship on the Via Manzoni. The company is also partnering in local markets to launch new doors across China, Southeast Asia and Eastern Europe, while a corner dedicated to men’s accessories will open at London’s Harrods this month.
ANTONIO MARRAS After a three-year hiatus, Antonio Marras has revived his men’s wear line, which is produced under license by Italian manufacturer Emmegierre Fashion.
The collection, which will be shown Monday at the designer’s Circolo Marras in Milan, pays homage to Marras’ father, Efisio.
“I’ve always said to myself that if I returned to design men’s wear, I would dedicate it to my dad,” said Marras, who reworked and painted portraits of his father to decorate shirts and sweatshirts. The cloths that Marras’ father used to sell in his store in Alghero in Sardinia also inspired the collection.
High-end fabrics, mostly from Japan and the U.K., show a range of patterns, from micro-geometric prints to Liberty motifs. These take center stage in the sophisticated yet functional lineup, which features voluminous, ample silhouettes for a very comfortable, masculine fit. Several jackets, combining different materials including Japanese nylon, jersey and knitted wool, are reversible, and sweaters are roomy. Pants are slightly oversize with drop crotches.
A blue padded corduroy caban with a polka dot motif is paired with a matching three-piece suit in the same fabric, while a checkered felted lightweight wool suit is worn with a knitted wool and jersey vest and a cotton shirt. For a more casual look, Marras paired a padded technical parka with a cotton suit in a micro-geometric motif.
Retail prices range from 160 euros, or $218, for a cotton shirt, and 220 euros, or $300, for a sweatshirt, to 800 euros, or $1,089, for a coat. Trousers are 280 to 400 euros, or $381 to $545, while knitwear comes in between 250 euros, or $340, and 500 euros, or $680.
To complete the outfit, Marras teamed with Italian accessories label Pantofola d’Oro to deliver a co-branded range of bags and shoes, including “chunky Derby shoes with big soles,” the designer said.
According to Marras, distribution of the collection will be limited to select points of sale. Relationships with international top clients will be handled directly from the Circolo Marras in Milan, while a network of agents will wholesale the collection across Italy. In addition, the company established specific distribution channels in Russia, Asia and Northern Europe.
The annual Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic in Pacific Palisades this weekend drew Kate Hudson, Tracee Ellis Ross, Laura Dern and more. See pictures of the star-studded event on WWD.com. (📷: @chelsealaurenla) #wwdeye
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye
"Nowadays when life is not so happy with everything going on in the world, I think people come to me for a little bit of whimsy and color and fun." - Designer Rebecca De Ravenel on her cult-favorite jewelry line. (📸 : @vsteves) #wwd40
“Everyone is talking about how the retail industry is struggling, but I think it’s an incredible time because brands who are doing something different and innovative are setting themselves up for the future,” said @adamgoldston, who founded the luxury athletic brand @apl with his brother @ryangoldsten. The Goldston’s are part of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables. See the rest of the list on WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
@eyeswoon blogger Athena Calderone debuted her first-ever cookbook, “Cook Beautiful,” which is heavily centered on the presentation and visual expression of food. Pictured here are her miso glazed carrots from the book. Get the recipe on WWD.com. (📷: @johnny_miller_) #wwdeye
“It’s passion that helps get anybody to a certain point and it’s what’s propelled me,” said Kith founder @ronniefieg, one of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables who are changing the face of retail, fashion and beauty. Fieg, who opened a Manhattan flagship on October 7, began his career at age 13 as a stock boy and salesman for footwear chain David Z. “I think staying true to [my] beliefs, hard work and passion have gotten me to where [Kith] is today.” See the rest of the 40 at WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
25-year-old @samweaving is about to break out this fall, starring in Netflix’s horror film “The Babysitter,” fittingly out today on Friday the 13th. That’s not the only place you’ll be seeing her, though — Weaving’s got a role Showtime’s “SMILF” and another alongside Frances McDormand and Woody Harrelson in “Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri.” Though she’s got a full plate at the moment, there’s one role she’s got her eye on: Marilyn Monroe. “I’m a little too young at the moment, but it’s on my bucket list,” the actress told WWD (📷: @dandoperalski) #wwdeye
BFF's Poppy Jamie and Suki Waterhouse celebrated the launch of their bag line Pop x Suki at Nordstrom last night. "The line is really about our friendship, and how we are so different but complement each other," said Waterhouse. 👯 (📷: Katie Jones) #wwdeye
After designing the new @louisvuitton and @bulgariofficial flagships and a @chanelofficial boutique opening in Japan, @petermarinoarchitect has another project on his plate: The Lobster Club. Located in the Seagram Building, it’s the famed architect’s first restaurant project in New York, serving up modern Japanese brasserie-style cuisine. Bronze hues, bespoke material detailing, blush and chartreuse tones and a heavy emphasis on Picasso can be seen throughout. Mark your calendars for Nov. 1 for the much-anticipated opening. (📷: @clint_spaulding) #wwdeye