MILAN — Castor Srl, which produces collections for high-end labels including Giles Deacon and Antonio Marras, has tapped German designer Dzemal Mahmutovic as creative director of its women’s wear house brand Mantù.
The label’s collections were formerly created by a design team overseen by Gigi Vezzola.
A fashion design graduate from Antwerp’s prestigious Academy of Fine Arts, Mahmutovic worked at Dries van Noten for six years, prior to moving to India, where he learned the country’s ancient embroidery techniques, and then to Japan. In Tokyo, Mahmutovic had an active role in the development of Jil Sander’s J+ line for Japanese retailer Uniqlo.
“Castor’s quality is very good and they have the proper manufacturing skills to develop almost everything we want for Mantù collections,” said Mahmutovic.
“When we met him and we saw his sketches, we immediately realized that he would have been the perfect designer for Mantù,” said Castor founder Angela Picozzi. “With this appointment, we aim to take a further step in the definition of Mantù’s identity, defining our positioning between designer labels and more commercial brands.”
Mantù is sold in stores worldwide, including Bergdorf Goodman, Saks Fifth Avenue in New York, Neiman Marcus Direct, L’Eclaireur in Paris, La Rinascente in Milan, Takashimaya Tokyo, Harvey Nichols Hong Kong, Crocus in Moscow and Al Ostoura Kuwait.
Mahmutovic will unveil the first fruits of his collaboration with Castor on Tuesday, presenting Mantù’s resort collection in New York.
The fashion designer pointed at the city of Mantua, where Castor is based and which gives the name to the brand, as the main inspiration for the collection. “When you walk around, you have the feeling that Mantua is an open-air museum,” said Mahmutovic, who translated architectural elements of the city’s Renaissance architecture in the lineup.
The work of German photographer Candida Höfer also served as references for Mahmutovic for resort.
As a result, the designer put the focus on sharp silhouettes, delivering boxy jackets with accentuated shoulders, cigarette pants and constructed jacquard dresses decorated with sophisticated embroideries and round cutouts. He also introduced prints and embroideries reproducing the bas-reliefs of a number of Mantua’s buildings.
Balancing the strong look of the collection, Mahmutovic included looser styles, including fluid pants and blouses.
The color palette is focused on matte colors, in tones of cement, blue and amaranth, which contrast with bold hues of pink and yellow.
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews