MILAN — Marni is turning 20 this year and is planning a number of events to mark the anniversary, leveraging a more managerial structure — a strategy put in place since the sale of a majority stake to Renzo Rosso’s OTB in December 2012 — improved merchandising and timely deliveries.
Through these initiatives, chief executive officer Gianni Castiglioni told WWD during the men’s presentation in Milan that he plans to double company sales in three years. In 2013, revenues totaled 130 million euros, or $171.6 million at average exchange, in line with the previous year, since the company was “impacted by the negative exchange of the Japanese yen, balanced, however, by the expansion of the men’s and accessories categories,” in addition to Marni’s core women’s ready-to-wear, which accounts for 72 percent of sales.
General manager Andrea Baldo, who joined the Italian brand in March, said it was “fundamental to understand the market and respond to its needs with timely deliveries,” including those of a more structured pre-collection.
Creative director Consuelo Castiglioni is also evolving the brand’s store concept, conceived in 2000. The first blueprint will open on London’s Sloane Street in the second half. “We are taking a step forward, so that we can become more performing and more efficacious, less rigid and more flexible,” said Baldo. Separate zones will differentiate categories, with an added focus on shoes, bags and costume jewelry, for an easier and more functional purchase. Accessories account for 25 percent of sales. Castiglioni was pleased with the success of Marni’s structured shoulder bag, Trunk.
“Marni has been innovating a lot, but it hasn’t communicated it enough, and we want to give more value to certain categories,” said Castiglioni, adding that the company will introduce its first ad campaign at the end of the year.
Also ahead, the opening of stores in Chengdu in China and San Francisco. Next year, a showroom will be opened in New York.
From overseeing America’s fastest-growing speciality retailers to codifying cool, WWD talked to the women who are leading the way for the future of beauty. Check out our Instagram Stories to see how these women built today and are creating tomorrow. (📸: @hannah_khymych) #wwdbeauty
For @laperlalingerie's spring 2018 show, the brand chose to host their event at @thevenetianmacao. With Chinese megastars @bingbing_fan and @hubing in attendance, La Perla debuted a rock ‘n’ roll-inspired collection. The show marked the start of Sands Macao Fashion Week, which runs from October 19 to 24 — the city’s first such event. Pictured here are models backstage with glimmering eyes. #wwdfashion (📷: Cheuk-Yin To)
Trending for spring 2018: top stitch design. Gone are the days of stitch just for seams — designers are using the once-minimal detail to create strong decorative elements. (📷: Paola Testa; Styled by @andrew_shang) #wwdfashion
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)