MILAN — Marni is turning 20 this year and is planning a number of events to mark the anniversary, leveraging a more managerial structure — a strategy put in place since the sale of a majority stake to Renzo Rosso’s OTB in December 2012 — improved merchandising and timely deliveries.
Through these initiatives, chief executive officer Gianni Castiglioni told WWD during the men’s presentation in Milan that he plans to double company sales in three years. In 2013, revenues totaled 130 million euros, or $171.6 million at average exchange, in line with the previous year, since the company was “impacted by the negative exchange of the Japanese yen, balanced, however, by the expansion of the men’s and accessories categories,” in addition to Marni’s core women’s ready-to-wear, which accounts for 72 percent of sales.
General manager Andrea Baldo, who joined the Italian brand in March, said it was “fundamental to understand the market and respond to its needs with timely deliveries,” including those of a more structured pre-collection.
Creative director Consuelo Castiglioni is also evolving the brand’s store concept, conceived in 2000. The first blueprint will open on London’s Sloane Street in the second half. “We are taking a step forward, so that we can become more performing and more efficacious, less rigid and more flexible,” said Baldo. Separate zones will differentiate categories, with an added focus on shoes, bags and costume jewelry, for an easier and more functional purchase. Accessories account for 25 percent of sales. Castiglioni was pleased with the success of Marni’s structured shoulder bag, Trunk.
“Marni has been innovating a lot, but it hasn’t communicated it enough, and we want to give more value to certain categories,” said Castiglioni, adding that the company will introduce its first ad campaign at the end of the year.
Also ahead, the opening of stores in Chengdu in China and San Francisco. Next year, a showroom will be opened in New York.
Harrods plans to remove the famous statue of Princess Diana and Dodi Al Fayed from the bottom of the Egyptian escalators and hand it back to Mohamed Al-Fayed. “We are very proud to have played our role in celebrating the lives of Diana, Princess of Wales and Dodi Al Fayed at Harrods and to have welcomed people from around the world to visit the memorial for the past 20 years,” said Michael Ward, Harrods managing director. “With the announcement of the new official memorial statue to Diana, Princess of Wales at Kensington Palace, we feel that the time is right to return this memorial to Mr. Al Fayed and for the public to be invited to pay their respects at the palace.” More on the news, with reporting by @loreleimarfil, at WWD.com. #wwdnews
@prada is introducing a new project at its men’s fall 2018 show this Sunday: “Prada Invites.” The fashion house invited four celebrated creative minds – @ronanaerwanbouroullec, Konstantin Grcic, @herzogdemeuron and @rem.koolhaas – to each create a unique item with its iconic nylon material. The designs will be unveiled on the runway show, which will take place at the company’s warehouse in Viale Ortles 25. #wwdfashion #mfwm (📷: @martinocarrera)
@kering_official is spinning off its stake in puma in an effort to focus on its luxury brands, the brand operator announced yesterday. “We are proud to have supported the turnaround of Puma, which now has unrivaled capabilities to take full advantage of the specific dynamics of its global markets and is poised to achieve substantial growth,” said François-Henri Pinault, Kering’s chief executive officer and chairman. Artémis will become a “long-term strategic shareholder” of Puma with a 29 percent stake. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
The fashion world mourns for celebrated street style photographer, Nabile Quenum, who died at age 32 in Paris.
Quenum, creator of the fashion blog “J’ai Perdu Ma Veste,” was a fashion week fixture, and regularly shot for New York magazine’s The Cut, among other outlets, and brands such as Louis Vuitton, Moncler and Adidas. He was also actively involved in the #NoFreePhotos initiative, which kicked off in the fall. Read more about Quenum in @kbsmoke's story on WWD.com. #wwdnews
@verwanggang and @maisonladuree have teamed up on a dessert collab called Vera Wang Pour Ladurée. The collection, which launched this week, features a specialty macaroon, as well as a wedding cake inspired by one of the designer’s gowns. “I could not imagine a more delicate or sophisticated creation to grace any couple’s celebration,” said Wang. #wwdfashion