MILAN — Marni is turning 20 this year and is planning a number of events to mark the anniversary, leveraging a more managerial structure — a strategy put in place since the sale of a majority stake to Renzo Rosso’s OTB in December 2012 — improved merchandising and timely deliveries.
Through these initiatives, chief executive officer Gianni Castiglioni told WWD during the men’s presentation in Milan that he plans to double company sales in three years. In 2013, revenues totaled 130 million euros, or $171.6 million at average exchange, in line with the previous year, since the company was “impacted by the negative exchange of the Japanese yen, balanced, however, by the expansion of the men’s and accessories categories,” in addition to Marni’s core women’s ready-to-wear, which accounts for 72 percent of sales.
General manager Andrea Baldo, who joined the Italian brand in March, said it was “fundamental to understand the market and respond to its needs with timely deliveries,” including those of a more structured pre-collection.
Creative director Consuelo Castiglioni is also evolving the brand’s store concept, conceived in 2000. The first blueprint will open on London’s Sloane Street in the second half. “We are taking a step forward, so that we can become more performing and more efficacious, less rigid and more flexible,” said Baldo. Separate zones will differentiate categories, with an added focus on shoes, bags and costume jewelry, for an easier and more functional purchase. Accessories account for 25 percent of sales. Castiglioni was pleased with the success of Marni’s structured shoulder bag, Trunk.
“Marni has been innovating a lot, but it hasn’t communicated it enough, and we want to give more value to certain categories,” said Castiglioni, adding that the company will introduce its first ad campaign at the end of the year.
Also ahead, the opening of stores in Chengdu in China and San Francisco. Next year, a showroom will be opened in New York.
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)
@heriethpaul and @gracebol have a moment on the @victoriassecret fashion show 2017. See every look from the runway on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo) #wwdfashion #victoriassecret #VSFashionShow
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia