Today, the Milanese brand will unveil its Evening Collection, a new line dedicated to women’s evening clothes and accessories. Positioned as a special-occasion collection for Marni loyalists, as chief executive officer Gianni Castiglioni said, the evening range includes ready-to-wear and a full accessories line.
“For me, the Marni Evening Collection is a fascinating area of research in terms of design and materials,” said creative director Consuelo Castiglioni, who stayed true to house aesthetics without indulging in the hyper-decorative, typically print-heavy looks that are often associated with the main collection. Instead, she explored a more effortless elegance, opting for rigorous cuts and subtle, sophisticated details.
That’s not to say the lineup appeals to traditional notions of eveningwear — there are just two gowns in the collection, both languid maxidresses in reverse crepe satin. The rest is focused on clean-cut silhouettes, many of them inspired by daywear and elevated through luxury fabrics and embellishment.
For example, a new take on the skirt suit features a cropped silk duchesse bomber and matching skirt, cut below the knee, worn with a mannish cotton poplin shirt. Working in a rather sober palette of black, white and deep red, Castiglioni showed a short cape tied with an oversized silk bow over slouchy cropped pants, and a cocoon jacket styled with a sleeveless Persian lamb top. Where she did use print and texture, it was quiet, as in a black-and-white floral pattern and a wool jacquard meant to imitate the veins on leaves.
The collection will hit Marni stores worldwide in November, at the same time as resort. Retail prices range from $600 for silk duchesse tops to $5,530 for an embroidered belted coat with nutria fur cuffs.
As for accessories, shoes include black-and-gold sandals with stacked heels and corolla-shaped platforms, bejeweled flat sandals and a riff on mannish leather loafers done with crystal capped toes, while the bags range from python clutches to flat embroidered bags with fur details to a snakeskin version of the label’s new Marni Trunk bag.
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast