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MILAN — Marni is ready to come out at night.
Today, the Milanese brand will unveil its Evening Collection, a new line dedicated to women’s evening clothes and accessories. Positioned as a special-occasion collection for Marni loyalists, as chief executive officer Gianni Castiglioni said, the evening range includes ready-to-wear and a full accessories line.
“For me, the Marni Evening Collection is a fascinating area of research in terms of design and materials,” said creative director Consuelo Castiglioni, who stayed true to house aesthetics without indulging in the hyper-decorative, typically print-heavy looks that are often associated with the main collection. Instead, she explored a more effortless elegance, opting for rigorous cuts and subtle, sophisticated details.
That’s not to say the lineup appeals to traditional notions of eveningwear — there are just two gowns in the collection, both languid maxidresses in reverse crepe satin. The rest is focused on clean-cut silhouettes, many of them inspired by daywear and elevated through luxury fabrics and embellishment.
For example, a new take on the skirt suit features a cropped silk duchesse bomber and matching skirt, cut below the knee, worn with a mannish cotton poplin shirt. Working in a rather sober palette of black, white and deep red, Castiglioni showed a short cape tied with an oversized silk bow over slouchy cropped pants, and a cocoon jacket styled with a sleeveless Persian lamb top. Where she did use print and texture, it was quiet, as in a black-and-white floral pattern and a wool jacquard meant to imitate the veins on leaves.
The collection will hit Marni stores worldwide in November, at the same time as resort. Retail prices range from $600 for silk duchesse tops to $5,530 for an embroidered belted coat with nutria fur cuffs.
As for accessories, shoes include black-and-gold sandals with stacked heels and corolla-shaped platforms, bejeweled flat sandals and a riff on mannish leather loafers done with crystal capped toes, while the bags range from python clutches to flat embroidered bags with fur details to a snakeskin version of the label’s new Marni Trunk bag.