MILAN — Marni is ready to come out at night.
This story first appeared in the July 1, 2013 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
Today, the Milanese brand will unveil its Evening Collection, a new line dedicated to women’s evening clothes and accessories. Positioned as a special-occasion collection for Marni loyalists, as chief executive officer Gianni Castiglioni said, the evening range includes ready-to-wear and a full accessories line.
“For me, the Marni Evening Collection is a fascinating area of research in terms of design and materials,” said creative director Consuelo Castiglioni, who stayed true to house aesthetics without indulging in the hyper-decorative, typically print-heavy looks that are often associated with the main collection. Instead, she explored a more effortless elegance, opting for rigorous cuts and subtle, sophisticated details.
That’s not to say the lineup appeals to traditional notions of eveningwear — there are just two gowns in the collection, both languid maxidresses in reverse crepe satin. The rest is focused on clean-cut silhouettes, many of them inspired by daywear and elevated through luxury fabrics and embellishment.
For example, a new take on the skirt suit features a cropped silk duchesse bomber and matching skirt, cut below the knee, worn with a mannish cotton poplin shirt. Working in a rather sober palette of black, white and deep red, Castiglioni showed a short cape tied with an oversized silk bow over slouchy cropped pants, and a cocoon jacket styled with a sleeveless Persian lamb top. Where she did use print and texture, it was quiet, as in a black-and-white floral pattern and a wool jacquard meant to imitate the veins on leaves.
The collection will hit Marni stores worldwide in November, at the same time as resort. Retail prices range from $600 for silk duchesse tops to $5,530 for an embroidered belted coat with nutria fur cuffs.
As for accessories, shoes include black-and-gold sandals with stacked heels and corolla-shaped platforms, bejeweled flat sandals and a riff on mannish leather loafers done with crystal capped toes, while the bags range from python clutches to flat embroidered bags with fur details to a snakeskin version of the label’s new Marni Trunk bag.