NEW YORK — Marni on Saturday unveiled its first U.S. Edition store at 1 Gansevoort Street in the Meatpacking District here. The narrow 2,500-square-foot triangular building at the confluence of Gansevoort Street and West 13th Street will sell both women’s and men’s. In addition, for spring, the store will launch Marni children’s collection for girls ages 2 to 12. The Meatpacking unit will be the only store in the U.S. to carry the kids’ line.
“This store, I think, is the perfect location for these collections,” said Marni designer Consuelo Castiglioni. “My Meatpacking District and West Village customer is younger and more bohemian.”
The first Marni Edition unit bowed in Hong Kong in August. A Marni Edition concession opened in March at Harvey Nichols. The next Edition stores will open in Shanghai and Tokyo. “If we have a nice opportunity in the U.S., we will consider it,” said Anna Molteni, worldwide wholesale and retail director of Marni.
Edition, which was born two years ago, targets a younger customer with prices that are 20 to 25 percent less than the main collection. “It’s a different attitude,” said Molteni. “It’s a little more casual, with different fabrics, but always keeping the Marni feeling.”
Yohji Yamamoto previously occupied the Gansevoort Street space. The Japanese designer cut a piece off the building to create an outdoor walkway and separate stockroom. Marni united the two buildings, turning the smaller section into an open stock area that’s visible from the store.
“The idea is to dress an existing place to give it an identity for a set period of time,” said Castiglioni, who relishes the transformative nature of stores. “Our stores don’t have window displays,” said Molteni. “The steel box is like a window display for us.” Molteni was referring to a steel box painted fuchsia inside, with a neon orange chair displaying handbags, vests and scarves. From the street, people can see the “display window in a box.”
Steel boxes — larger, rectangular, vertical and movable — are used as dressing rooms, with a burst of fuchsia inside. Throughout the store, the circle, dots and spheres are recurring themes. Fixtures are rounded, metal screens have small holes like dots and accessories displays are made from perforated metal.
A video by the artists Marco and Saverio Lanza of Pastis captured the genesis of the Edition project. When Castiglioni saw the video, she liked it so much she had it made into wallpaper, which covers the front wall of the store. “We’ll be showing the film here,” Molteni said.
Fiberglass model forms are dressed in some of Edition’s most eclectic pieces, such as a jacquard mohair coat for $1,480 and a silk twill dress in a Floral Dream print for $1,145. Hangers are covered with wrinkly muslin that’s been washed and starched and looks like a piece of papier-mâché sculpture. “It takes the commercial aspect out of the price,” said Molteni. “It’s the essence of all these little details.”
Marni is also working on a fragrance, Molteni said, and a spring project called Recycle will produce necklaces.
“Edition has grown at retail and wholesale,” Molteni said, adding that Saks Fifth Avenue, Barneys New York, Bergdorf Goodman and Jeffrey carry the line. “We’ll buy it differently,” Molteni said. “Our collections are quite wide.”
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews