“That’s the women’s calendar,” he said of waiting until after Labor Day. “We’re opening the line for sale now. Showing the clothes in September doesn’t make sense.” He said in the past, when he would show men’s and women’s together on the same runway, he found himself putting retailers off, saying, “Wait, wait, the show’s coming — save some money for our clothes. But that logic is bizarre. I would rather stores see the line when they’re in their fashion mojo.”
Stressing that he wasn’t trying to create a “calendar revolution,” Kors said he doesn’t necessarily support the creation of a separate men’s fashion week in New York and isn’t ready to commit to a “full-tilt runway presentation” for his men’s line — “it depends on the season. But we want the people to see the clothes up close, and this allows buyers to see the complete collection and not have to wait for the runway show.”
A few men’s pieces may be sprinkled in on the runway during his show in September, but those will only be to show a full representation of the brand.
Channeling his Hollywood pedigree, the “Project Runway” judge said his spring line was reminiscent of David Bowie meets Cary Grant meets Ryan Gosling. For Kors, this is a season that was “about convergences,” where tailored clothing and pajamas converge into a relaxed yet sophisticated conglomerate.
“The most luxurious becomes the most casual,” he said, pointing to double-faced sweatshirts in cashmere and cotton, pin-striped suits in crinkled wool and waxed linen anoraks. “The most casual things are the most indulgent. It’s yin and yang.”
He said the challenge is for men to “dress easy and comfortably but still be polished and sophisticated.” He addressed this with key looks that included sleeveless blazers, oxford pleated wide-leg trousers, suede trenches, indigo cotton Shaker pullover sweaters and an assortment of leather and hemp bags.
“It’s more relaxed,” Kors said. “If I see another man on the street in skinny pants that don’t fit him, [I’m going to scream.] It’s time to loosen up.”
Many of the pant models featured a high waist, a look that Kors called the “anti-Bieber. Men have forgotten where their waists are,” he said. The defined waists, that he encircled with oversize belts, worked well with the battle jackets and bombers.
Kors also offered pieces that have taken a back seat of late, such as double-breasted blazers. “Most guys haven’t worn double-breasteds in ages, and if they’re 25, they’ve never worn them.” Kors’ offering included Bengal stripes in crushed wool or white linen. “We have to give him a reason to buy something new,” he said.
That includes such men’s wear staples as the seersucker suit, shown with wide-leg pants. “Why not ratchet it up and make it cool?” he said. “Modern New Orleans in summer.”
Confessing that he is “addicted to blue,” Kors offered the color in a variety of hues, from the light shade of the seersucker stripe to the deeper indigo of a denim blazer, cotton pullover and denim-leather trench.
His outerwear choices included “trenches that got short and anoraks that got long.” They were paired with waxed linen cargo pants in a slim fit or hemp linen pleated shorts.
Kors also offered a selection of accessories such as a utilitarian take on the duffle and gym bags in linen, leather and denim. “I’m playing with the whole utility bag idea,” he said, noting that a lot of women have been buying the men’s bags.
He said his men’s wear customer can be the husband or partner of the Michael Kors woman or just a guy seeking a balance between youthfulness and sophistication. This includes men “of ‘a certain age’ who don’t want to look like papa. They’re international, they’re in shape, they travel. They want to look polished and comfortable.”
He ended his presentation by “playing around with dots.” Noting that there’s always a “challenge of men with pattern,” he said, “fashion folks fall in love with it and then reality sets in. So mixing of dots is one way to do it.”
Asked to sum up what he thinks of men’s wear today, Kors said he sees a “loosening of the rules. It used to be that men dressed differently for their age and had separate closets for weekend and work. But now the climate is demented and the idea of seasonality is gone. We’re all living fast. It’s an exciting time. Guys want to look great, and they’re interested in fashion but they’re not victims. The rules broke for women first, and now they’ve broken for guys.”
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye
"Nowadays when life is not so happy with everything going on in the world, I think people come to me for a little bit of whimsy and color and fun." - Designer Rebecca De Ravenel on her cult-favorite jewelry line. (📸 : @vsteves) #wwd40
“Everyone is talking about how the retail industry is struggling, but I think it’s an incredible time because brands who are doing something different and innovative are setting themselves up for the future,” said @adamgoldston, who founded the luxury athletic brand @apl with his brother @ryangoldsten. The Goldston’s are part of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables. See the rest of the list on WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
@eyeswoon blogger Athena Calderone debuted her first-ever cookbook, “Cook Beautiful,” which is heavily centered on the presentation and visual expression of food. Pictured here are her miso glazed carrots from the book. Get the recipe on WWD.com. (📷: @johnny_miller_) #wwdeye
“It’s passion that helps get anybody to a certain point and it’s what’s propelled me,” said Kith founder @ronniefieg, one of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables who are changing the face of retail, fashion and beauty. Fieg, who opened a Manhattan flagship on October 7, began his career at age 13 as a stock boy and salesman for footwear chain David Z. “I think staying true to [my] beliefs, hard work and passion have gotten me to where [Kith] is today.” See the rest of the 40 at WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
25-year-old @samweaving is about to break out this fall, starring in Netflix’s horror film “The Babysitter,” fittingly out today on Friday the 13th. That’s not the only place you’ll be seeing her, though — Weaving’s got a role Showtime’s “SMILF” and another alongside Frances McDormand and Woody Harrelson in “Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri.” Though she’s got a full plate at the moment, there’s one role she’s got her eye on: Marilyn Monroe. “I’m a little too young at the moment, but it’s on my bucket list,” the actress told WWD (📷: @dandoperalski) #wwdeye
BFF's Poppy Jamie and Suki Waterhouse celebrated the launch of their bag line Pop x Suki at Nordstrom last night. "The line is really about our friendship, and how we are so different but complement each other," said Waterhouse. 👯 (📷: Katie Jones) #wwdeye
After designing the new @louisvuitton and @bulgariofficial flagships and a @chanelofficial boutique opening in Japan, @petermarinoarchitect has another project on his plate: The Lobster Club. Located in the Seagram Building, it’s the famed architect’s first restaurant project in New York, serving up modern Japanese brasserie-style cuisine. Bronze hues, bespoke material detailing, blush and chartreuse tones and a heavy emphasis on Picasso can be seen throughout. Mark your calendars for Nov. 1 for the much-anticipated opening. (📷: @clint_spaulding) #wwdeye
Did you know: @carlychaikin of "Mr. Robot" has been painting for about a decade? The actress, who plays Darlene on the show, is a self-taught artist who lists Salvador Dalí and Chuck Close as some of her idols. Chaikin told WWD that painting is a form of meditation for her — A much-needed one given the intensity of "Mr. Robot." See a piece Chaikin is working on at WWD.com (📷: @jilliansollazzo) #wwdeye