Brioni/Alessandro Dell’Acqua Upon stepping into Brioni’s design studio as the house’s creative director this summer, Alessandro Dell’Acqua immediately cleaned the slate.
Uninterested in the gimmicky antics and the fussy constructions favored by his predecessors, the seasoned designer returned to a less-is-more template, forged around Brioni’s tailoring and classical tradition.
“I wanted everything to be lighter and less complicated, because the type of fashion that had been done is useless and out of context here,” said Dell’Acqua.
His first Brioni effort will be readied for a runway show at the Triennale on Sept. 26.
Citing a return to a new basic with a bourgeois undercurrent and a whiff of sensuality, Dell’Acqua said he refreshened the proportions with a play on the male/female aesthetic while tapping into Brioni’s 65-year-old men’s wear tradition.
“You can’t not take advantage of the outstanding sartorial tradition this company boasts,” said Dell’Acqua.
Jackets abound, especially deconstructed styles made by bonding differently textured silks, while dresses are long and billowy. Outerwear features dusters, trenchcoats and cabans in khaki, white, powder pink and red.
— Alessandra Ilari
Silvio Betterelli At 30, Sardinian Silvio Betterelli is ready for his official debut at Milan Fashion Week on Sept. 27 at 6 p.m.
After graduating with a degree in fashion design from NABA [Nuova Accademia di Belle Arti] in Milan, Betterelli went on to design two capsule collections for accessories brand Furla. His spring line will be manufactured by Lecce, Italy-based S.P.S. Manifatture.
“I want to rediscover prêt-à-couture, with a more democratic attitude,” said Betterelli. “My aim is to design down-to-earth products — beautiful but with affordable prices.”
The designer’s goal was to take his two-dimensional sketches and incorporate them into his clothing by draping and molding fabrics of different weights like chiffon, silk voile, linen and light wool into various shapes. Betterelli generated a sense of optical illusion in his feminine and sophisticated dresses and blouses from the contrast between the folds of the fabric and the 3-D forms.
The color palette, ranging from aquamarines to soft grays, takes its hues from the tranquil sea surrounding the designer’s native island.
The line, available at Harvey Nichols in Hong Kong, Beams in Tokyo and Opium in Saint Petersburg, among others, retails from $154 for a draped silk blouse to $1,795 for an evening dress.
— Alessandra Turra
Rosa Clandestino U.S.-born designer Silvia Argüello used her eclectic background — she is of Nicaraguan and Cuban descent and was raised in the Honduras — as an inspiration for her Rosa Clandestino clothing line. After studying at international design school Esmod in Paris, a four-year stint at Emanuel Ungaro and earning a master’s degreein accessories design from the Marangoni Institute in Milan, 33-year-old Argüello felt ready to go solo.
With her third collection, Rosa Clandestino was named among seven finalists of Vogue Italia’s Who’s on Next competition in July. Additionally, Argüello received the Fashion Freedom award, which gave her the opportunity to help out a community in Kenya through the sale of pieces that she created alongside a group of women from the area.
“My latest collection arises from the idea that life is a contradiction. A shape can be loved or hated, embraced or rejected, understood or misinterpreted,” said the designer.
The palette contains the usual pastel suspects, but with splashes of muted neon greens and pinks. Retail prices range from about $600 to $2,000. The line is sold at Realm Boutique in New York and will be available to buy in Milan Sept. 24 to 30 at the Carlton Hotel Baglioni, 5 Via Senato.
Argüello’s collection, along with the Fashion Freedom pieces, will be on display at Palazzo Morando, 6 Via Sant’Andrea, on Sept. 23.
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)
The @cfda has shifted the dates of #NYFW, with Men’s showing on February 5 through February 7, and Women’s will directly follow, running from February 8 through 14. The preliminary schedule will be released on the CFDA’s web site in the next few days, but Mark Beckham, VP of marketing for the CFDA, revealed that @rafsimons will be back to close the men’s-specific part of the week with a show on February 7 #wwdfashion (📷: Kelly Taub)
@ferragamo is introducing a new space dedicated to the development of women’s and men’s leather good samples. The laboratory, which is created eco-friendly materials and designed to reduce the environmental impact of the manufacturing processes, will allow the company to expand its accessories offering through traditional artisanal approaches. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
How does a “regular, degular, schmegular” girl from the Bronx, N.Y., become a Grammy-nominated artist with a certified platinum record in less than a year? Call it the @iamcardib come up. The 25-year-old has become a musical sensation, and the fashion world is taking note. “If I could describe her style I would say drama. She’s really into the dramatics,” says Cardi B’s stylist @kollincarter. See how Carter styles her bold and out there looks with the link in bio. #wwdfashion
“There is no formula. There is no guideline. I can watch Ted Talks all day, but there is no one who can advise me on exactly what it is I should be doing,” said @ronniefieg, CEO of @kith, in an interview with WWD’s @ariahughes at the brand’s new SoHo office in Manhattan. Head to WWD.com to see how Fieg went from hanging out in shoe stockrooms at 13 to building his own business. #wwdfashion (📷: @weston.wells)
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion