Brioni/Alessandro Dell’Acqua
Upon stepping into Brioni’s design studio as the house’s creative director this summer, Alessandro Dell’Acqua immediately cleaned the slate.

Uninterested in the gimmicky antics and the fussy constructions favored by his predecessors, the seasoned designer returned to a less-is-more template, forged around Brioni’s tailoring and classical tradition.

“I wanted everything to be lighter and less complicated, because the type of fashion that had been done is useless and out of context here,” said Dell’Acqua.

His first Brioni effort will be readied for a runway show at the Triennale on Sept. 26.

Citing a return to a new basic with a bourgeois undercurrent and a whiff of sensuality, Dell’Acqua said he refreshened the proportions with a play on the male/female aesthetic while tapping into Brioni’s 65-year-old men’s wear tradition.

“You can’t not take advantage of the outstanding sartorial tradition this company boasts,” said Dell’Acqua.

Jackets abound, especially deconstructed styles made by bonding differently textured silks, while dresses are long and billowy. Outerwear features dusters, trenchcoats and cabans in khaki, white, powder pink and red.

— Alessandra Ilari

Silvio Betterelli
At 30, Sardinian Silvio Betterelli is ready for his official debut at Milan Fashion Week on Sept. 27 at 6 p.m.

After graduating with a degree in fashion design from NABA [Nuova Accademia di Belle Arti] in Milan, Betterelli went on to design two capsule collections for accessories brand Furla. His spring line will be manufactured by Lecce, Italy-based S.P.S. Manifatture.

“I want to rediscover prêt-à-couture, with a more democratic attitude,” said Betterelli. “My aim is to design down-to-earth products — beautiful but with affordable prices.”

The designer’s goal was to take his two-dimensional sketches and incorporate them into his clothing by draping and molding fabrics of different weights like chiffon, silk voile, linen and light wool into various shapes. Betterelli generated a sense of optical illusion in his feminine and sophisticated dresses and blouses from the contrast between the folds of the fabric and the 3-D forms.

The color palette, ranging from aquamarines to soft grays, takes its hues from the tranquil sea surrounding the designer’s native island.

The line, available at Harvey Nichols in Hong Kong, Beams in Tokyo and Opium in Saint Petersburg, among others, retails from $154 for a draped silk blouse to $1,795 for an evening dress.

— Alessandra Turra

Rosa Clandestino
U.S.-born designer Silvia Argüello used her eclectic background — she is of Nicaraguan and Cuban descent and was raised in the Honduras — as an inspiration for her Rosa Clandestino clothing line. After studying at international design school Esmod in Paris, a four-year stint at Emanuel Ungaro and earning a master’s degreein accessories design from the Marangoni Institute in Milan, 33-year-old Argüello felt ready to go solo.

With her third collection, Rosa Clandestino was named among seven finalists of Vogue Italia’s Who’s on Next competition in July. Additionally, Argüello received the Fashion Freedom award, which gave her the opportunity to help out a community in Kenya through the sale of pieces that she created alongside a group of women from the area.

“My latest collection arises from the idea that life is a contradiction. A shape can be loved or hated, embraced or rejected, understood or misinterpreted,” said the designer.

The palette contains the usual pastel suspects, but with splashes of muted neon greens and pinks. Retail prices range from about $600 to $2,000. The line is sold at Realm Boutique in New York and will be available to buy in Milan Sept. 24 to 30 at the Carlton Hotel Baglioni, 5 Via Senato.

Argüello’s collection, along with the Fashion Freedom pieces, will be on display at Palazzo Morando, 6 Via Sant’Andrea, on Sept. 23.

— Christine Lee

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