MILAN — The die is cast.
This story first appeared in the October 12, 2011 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
Mario Boselli, head of the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, told WWD that “there is nothing more to add or change” regarding the September 2012 show dates following a letter he received Tuesday from Council of Fashion Designers of America president Diane von Furstenberg and British Fashion Council president Harold Tillman.
“They said they were disappointed we were not honoring the September 2008 agreement,” said Boselli. “I replied that we regret things went this way, but I stated that it is not our fault and that we are not responsible for this turn of events. We will meet to discuss dates for 2013.”
Boselli said he felt it was necessary to also send the letter and his reply to Didier Grumbach, president of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture.
As reported, Milan on Friday threw down the gauntlet by saying it definitely will hold next fall’s fashion shows Sept. 19 to 25 — which will overlap with both New York and London fashion weeks. The decision immediately elicited protests from the other two cities, although it remains unclear what action they can take. Paris will continue to hold its shows Sept. 25 to Oct. 3.
Italian designers are displeased with the plan of New York officials to start that city’s fashion week on Sept. 13 next year in order to avoid conflict with the Labor Day holiday in the U.S. New York’s shows would end on Sept. 20, with London running Sept. 21 to 25. The shift would put the shows essentially a week later than in recent years. The Italians contend the move is being forced on them by the CFDA.
During the meeting in Milan on Friday, the Camera examined paperwork dated September 2008. “We proved that there was no agreement with the CFDA and the BFC regarding the three years 2012-2013-2014, and that, in any case, the postponement of a week for the dates of September 2012 was not on the table,” said Boselli.
The CFDA and the BFC argue the agreement was long-term and not meant to be reviewed every three years.