The European runway calendars are steadily shrinking as a growing number of brands opt for coed displays.Balenciaga earlier this month became one of the latest brands to scrap separate women’s and men’s shows. The brand, led by artistic director Demna Gvasalia, plans to stage its first such dual runway show during Paris Fashion Week in March for the fall season. This brings Balenciaga, owned by luxury group Kering, into line with its sister labels Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent and Bottega Veneta, which have already adopted mixed shows, staged during women’s fashion weeks in Milan and Paris.Etro, Missoni, Jil Sander, Dsquared2, Calvin Klein, Burberry, Kenzo, Moschino, Vivienne Westwood, Tom Ford and Cédric Charlier are among others to have already jumped on the coed bandwagon, and, most recently J.W. Anderson and Salvatore Ferragamo joined the pack. The latter revealed this month that it will hold its first coed runway show to unveil its men’s and women’s fall 2018 collections, designed by Guillaume Meilland and Paul Andrew, respectively. The show will mark the ready-to-wear debut of Andrew, who was previously women’s footwear creative director of the women’s line and was appointed creative director of the women’s line last October, succeeding Fulvio Rigoni.Generally, having one display instead of two per season allows brands to reduce costs, while presenting a cohesive fashion message that works for many labels in an increasingly gender-blurry world.In the case of Etro, however, it involved the unusual situation of bringing together two collections that are helmed by different designers. Veronica Etro is creative director of the women’s division and her brother Kean leads the men’s category. Jacopo Etro, global communications vice president at the family-owned company, said that, “precisely because the two creative directors are different, the decision strengthens the brand’s unity of message with the same themes.”He emphasized the importance of having a strong brand message, which must be communicated “in a single, cohesive and unequivocal way. If you don’t have a strong message, you risk succumbing,” (In January, though, Etro will present its men’s collection during Milan Men’s Fashion Week, as it launches the 50th anniversary of the brand.)More labels are generally opting to show on the women’s calendar, presenting challenges for men’s buyers and editors, although show organizers are taking it in stride, accepting the fluidity and focusing on coordination. The coed momentum is leaving the men’s calendar somewhat sparse. For example, the latest Milan Men’s Fashion Week schedule reflects the changes in the men’s wear industry, according to Carlo Capasa, president of Italy’s Camera Nazionale della Moda.“The concept of how men’s wear is shown has changed and so has the concept of the calendar — everything is combined together and there is more and more cross-pollination,” Capasa contended. “The shift is real.” The shows will start on Jan. 12 with the Ermenegildo Zegna evening show and will end on Jan. 15, anchored by the Giorgio Armani and Fendi shows. Overall, the runway shows will be 31 in total.Capasa said the evolution has led the association to create a new format for the calendar, which now “combines presentations and shows in a single tale that each brand offers in line with its own aesthetic and vision.” The first chapter of coed shows, as Capasa called it, will take place in January, followed by the second chapter in February. Milan Men's Fashion Week is positioned right after Pitti Uomo, creating a sort of continuum. On the other side of the Atlantic, New York Fashion Week: Men's has shifted its dates slightly to run just before NYFW: Women's.
Taking the final spot on the mens’ portion of New York Fashion Week calendar next month will be none other than @tomford. Though he’s shown his men’s wear in New York in the past, this will mark the first time the designer has shown his men’s collection alone during New York Fashion Week: Men’s. His runway show will debut on February 6 at the Park Avenue Armory. #wwdfashion
London-based couture house @ralphandrusso has certainly been in the spotlight, having its dresses worn by @beyonce, Angelina Jolie, Meghan Markle in her engagement photos and more. For couture, Tamara Ralph focused on ornamentation — think: feathers with chain mail, jet embroidery and clusters of pearls and crystals. See the rest of the collection on WWD.com #wwdfashion #couture (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
Minnie Mouse celebrated her 90th birthday by getting her own star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame. For her celebratory luncheon, @coach’s creative director @stuartvevers dressed her in a custom made prairie dress, complete with Vever’s take on the polka dot – black sequined versions – under a cropped motorcycle jacket. The designer also put his own mark on Minnie’s classic red shoes, infusing the color with sparkles and adding some Coach crystals. “We chose colors that were very Minnie and also represented quintessential Coach elements,” said Vevers. #wwdfashion #nationalpolkadotday (📷: George Chinsee)
@nickjonas is unveiling his first-ever apparel collection through a partnership with John Varvatos. The limited-edition capsule, which makes its debut in spring, also marks the first time the designer has collaborated with anyone on a line. “The process in working with Nick is amazing. It’s inspiring to be around someone who is not only connected with the trade that they do, but also with what’s happening in the environment around him, and how that connects to what we do with style,” said Varvatos. (RG: @johnvarvatos) #wwdfashion
@margotrobbie steps out onto the red carpet wearing @miumiu. The actress is nominated for “Outstanding Performance by a Female Actor in a Leading Role” in “I, Tonya” at the #SagAwards. (📷: Stewart Cook) #wwdfashion
For @massimogiorgetti of @msgm, the Nineties are his favorite decade. “They had a huge impact on my personal growth. What I like of the Nineties is that they are not so precise in terms of style as other decades…there was actually a bit of everything,” he said. As seen on MSGM’s Spring 2018 show: tie-dye and a bit of grunge, two styles that are synonymous with the decade #wwdfashion #wwddecades (📷: @kukukuba)