The European runway calendars are steadily shrinking as a growing number of brands opt for coed displays.Balenciaga earlier this month became one of the latest brands to scrap separate women’s and men’s shows. The brand, led by artistic director Demna Gvasalia, plans to stage its first such dual runway show during Paris Fashion Week in March for the fall season. This brings Balenciaga, owned by luxury group Kering, into line with its sister labels Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent and Bottega Veneta, which have already adopted mixed shows, staged during women’s fashion weeks in Milan and Paris.Etro, Missoni, Jil Sander, Dsquared2, Calvin Klein, Burberry, Kenzo, Moschino, Vivienne Westwood, Tom Ford and Cédric Charlier are among others to have already jumped on the coed bandwagon, and, most recently J.W. Anderson and Salvatore Ferragamo joined the pack. The latter revealed this month that it will hold its first coed runway show to unveil its men’s and women’s fall 2018 collections, designed by Guillaume Meilland and Paul Andrew, respectively. The show will mark the ready-to-wear debut of Andrew, who was previously women’s footwear creative director of the women’s line and was appointed creative director of the women’s line last October, succeeding Fulvio Rigoni.Generally, having one display instead of two per season allows brands to reduce costs, while presenting a cohesive fashion message that works for many labels in an increasingly gender-blurry world.In the case of Etro, however, it involved the unusual situation of bringing together two collections that are helmed by different designers. Veronica Etro is creative director of the women’s division and her brother Kean leads the men’s category. Jacopo Etro, global communications vice president at the family-owned company, said that, “precisely because the two creative directors are different, the decision strengthens the brand’s unity of message with the same themes.”He emphasized the importance of having a strong brand message, which must be communicated “in a single, cohesive and unequivocal way. If you don’t have a strong message, you risk succumbing,” (In January, though, Etro will present its men’s collection during Milan Men’s Fashion Week, as it launches the 50th anniversary of the brand.)More labels are generally opting to show on the women’s calendar, presenting challenges for men’s buyers and editors, although show organizers are taking it in stride, accepting the fluidity and focusing on coordination. The coed momentum is leaving the men’s calendar somewhat sparse. For example, the latest Milan Men’s Fashion Week schedule reflects the changes in the men’s wear industry, according to Carlo Capasa, president of Italy’s Camera Nazionale della Moda.“The concept of how men’s wear is shown has changed and so has the concept of the calendar — everything is combined together and there is more and more cross-pollination,” Capasa contended. “The shift is real.” The shows will start on Jan. 12 with the Ermenegildo Zegna evening show and will end on Jan. 15, anchored by the Giorgio Armani and Fendi shows. Overall, the runway shows will be 31 in total.Capasa said the evolution has led the association to create a new format for the calendar, which now “combines presentations and shows in a single tale that each brand offers in line with its own aesthetic and vision.” The first chapter of coed shows, as Capasa called it, will take place in January, followed by the second chapter in February. Milan Men's Fashion Week is positioned right after Pitti Uomo, creating a sort of continuum. On the other side of the Atlantic, New York Fashion Week: Men's has shifted its dates slightly to run just before NYFW: Women's.
EXCLUSIVE: Two and half months after John Targon, cofounder and codesigner of Baja East, was hired as creative director of the contemporary division at Marc Jacobs, he has left the company, WWD has learned. Marc Jacobs International, which is owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, confirmed Targon’s departure in a statement: “John Targon is a talented designer and we appreciate the work he has done here. Ultimately working together did not make sense for the brand and we wish him the best.” Read the story by @jessiredale, link in bio. #wwdnews
@theluxurycollection is officially launching a collection, tapping Sofia Sanchez de Betak for the capsule. Over 30 styles will be featured in the Chufy x The Luxury Collection, debuting next month at Bergdorf Goodman, The Webster, FiveStory and more. De Betak, known as “@chufy,” drew inspiration for the collection from her trips to Japan in the past year #wwdfashion
@lhd, founder and CEO of @thewebster, has teamed up with @lebonmarcherivegauche for the European launch of her ready-to-wear line, LHD. The launch will come with an exclusive pop-up opening today that’s set to run through May 20. Located on the second floor, it carries her debut Miami-themed resort collection, launched in November as see-now-buy-now. #wwdfashion
@longchamp, which marks its 70th anniversary this year, just opened its biggest U.S. store on Manhattan’s Fifth Avenue. On the lower level there’s a floor-to-ceiling display of the brand’s iconic Le Pliage bag – in all of its different colors, shapes and sizes. Customers can also have their product personalized in-store by imprinting names, initials or emblems. #wwdfashion (📷: @ericmtownsend)
“Whenever I’m in that place of sound and music, I don’t have fear or nervousness…This album has a lot of themes of courage and boldness and I want to be the soundtrack for people’s lives. I’ll be so happy if [my songs] evoke strength in people, which I know music has done for me,” says @kimbramusic of her newest album “Primal Heart.” The New Zealand-born singer sat down with WWD to talk about her music, newest tour and connecting with hear fans — read more on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
Luxury handbag resale company @rebagofficial is planning to sell a rare collectible for $70,000: the @hermes White Crocodile Himalayan Birkin. The exclusive Birkin sold for about $100,000 in 2008, when @davidbeckham bought one for his wife @victoriabeckham to add to her collection. Read more about the rare Birkin on WWD.com #wwdaccessories
With her costume pearl necklace and what-you-see-is-what-you-get style, Barbara Bush, who died Tuesday at age 92, was a straight-shooter from start to finish.
Born Barbara Pierce in New York City, Bush served as the 37th first lady, as well as the country’s second lady from 1981 to 1989. In addition to being part of the longest presidential marriage — 73 years — Bush also had the unlikely distinction of having one son, George W., become the 43rd president and another son, Jeb, run unsuccessfully in 2016. Having served as second lady during the Reagan administration’s two terms and lived all over the world during her own husband’s ascending political career, Barbara Bush made it clear that literacy — not fashion — was her priority. Read more from Rosemary Feitelberg’s obituary on the late First Lady in WWD.com, link in bio. #barbarabush #wwdnews
Western and ’90s trends have influenced denim for fall 2018. Think raw, dark and coated jeans mixed with bold prints and tough leather. #trendtuesdays #wwdfashion (Styled by @thealexbadia;📷: @ryanplett)