MILAN — Refuting the argument that men’s wear must be boring to be elegant, MSGM creative director Massimo Giorgetti is gearing up to affirm the brand’s joyful fashion philosophy at the Pitti Uomo men’s international trade show. The designer will unveil his spring 2014 collection with a dynamic presentation at Florence’s Stazione Leopolda on June 19.
“The challenge is to demonstrate that it’s possible to design men’s wear that can be colorful and fun, yet very sophisticated and chic,” said Giorgetti.
“The mood is inspired by the Nineties,” he added, citing Brandon Walsh of “Beverly Hills 90210” as an important reference for the collection. The good boy who moved from Minnesota to glamorous Beverly Hills with his difficult twin sister Brenda would have certainly loved the denim pants with MSGM’s iconic collegiate “M” logo embroidered on the back pocket, which Giorgetti included in the spring range.
However, opting for a look “which is less young and much cooler than in the past seasons,” Giorgetti didn’t indulge in the sweet and preppy, but channeled a slightly rebellious and grunge-very urban “American skate park” theme. Giorgetti also cited Larry Clark’s “Ken Park” and Gus Van Sant’s “Paranoid Park” as important iconographic inspirations for his collection.
In line with the main theme, the pieces show relaxed silhouettes — outerwear came in deconstructed shapes and the pants were never too tight. A look included a suede biker jacket, worn over a Kurt Cobain-like checkered shirt and a signature floral cotton sweatshirt matched with cotton gabardine maxi shorts.
A very athletic outfit, reminiscent of the California surfer style, included a multicolor windbreaker with micro-floral details paired with trousers with a contrasting lateral band. To complete the look, there were also a raw-cut lightweight shirt and a tie-dyed cotton sweatshirt.
Footwear included a revisited Nineties surf sandal, along with canvas sneakers and slippers with vivid prints. To highlight the strong Nineties inspiration, Giorgetti also designed skater shoes that are “a bit chunky.”
The collection, which is positioned in the contemporary fashion segment, features retail prices ranging from 150 euros, or $199 at current exchange rates, to 180 euros, or $239, for pants, and 150 euros, or $199, and 250 euros, or $332, for sweatshirts.
According to Giorgetti, the men’s business currently represents 20 percent of MSGM’s total revenues. “Our goal is to increase it to 30 percent by the end of 2013,” he said.
While MSGM rings in 70 percent of its women’s sales abroad, the men’s line is strongly tied to the domestic market, but, “I think that the U.S. might be ready to understand the men’s line and Japan is already growing thanks to the partnership with a local distributor, as well as Hong Kong and Korea,” Giorgetti said.
The MSGM men’s wear line is available in 100 stores worldwide, including Excelsior in Milan, Society Club in Monte Carlo, Monaco, Mahani in Dubai, Seoul’s Koon and Tom Greyhound, H. Lorenzo in Los Angeles, along with Behaviour and Owen New York.
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast