Joel Palix, president of Clarins Fragrance Group and director general of Mugler, is expected to soon unveil a new strategic plan for Mugler “that builds on its highly successful legacy in fragrance and its new momentum in fashion.”
“Nicola has accomplished our original mission of bringing his energy to the brand,” Palix said. “With his talent for communication and understanding modern imagery and design, Nicola has been instrumental in attracting a new audience, which is undeniably crucial for the future strategy of the house. He will be a historical part of the Mugler legacy and known as the force that catapulted us forward.”
Formichetti — who collaborates with magazines such as V; styles celebrities including Kim Kardashian; is creative fashion director at Uniqlo, and has a line of T-shirts and trinkets under the Nicopanda label — is expected to shortly reveal a major collaboration with Italian denim giant Diesel.
Diesel executives declined to comment Tuesday.
A frenetic presence on the Internet who had live-streamed his preparations for the Mugler show and invited design input via crowdsourcing, Formichetti tweeted on Monday, “Big announcements coming this week!!”
For his part, Formichetti called his Mugler stint “a challenge to reinvigorate the house for a new generation and audience, particularly one that has grown up exploring fashion through the Internet.
“I really hope the audience has enjoyed what we have done and appreciated our push to democratize high fashion, not only through the enjoyment of clothing but also through a total, inclusive fashion experience,” he added.
Pressed for his reasons for leaving Mugler, he told WWD, “I wanted to do something else, even bigger, more global.”
While Formichetti carried the creative director title at Mugler, he is not a trained fashion designer and instead oversaw two seasoned talents: Sébastien Peigné, a 10-year veteran of Balenciaga, head designer of women’s at Mugler, and Romain Kremer, who had shown experimental looks for men under his own Paris label, head designer of men’s.
To be sure, Formichetti brought noise and editorial attention to Mugler with his celebrity connections, Gaga runway soundtracks and his constant feed of editorial credits and Mugler-related imagery on his Web site and Tumblr page.
During Formichetti’s tenure, Mugler fashions did not ignite a maelstrom of demand, but made some business inroads.
According to a Mugler spokesman, the women’s line is sold to about 45 retailers worldwide, including ones in the U.S., the U.K., Russia, Ukraine, South Korea, Japan, Hong Kong, Italy and Holland.
The men’s line is sold in 25 stores, including Maxfield, Opening Ceremony, Patron of the New, Isetan, Joyce and Antonioli. The bag line, introduced in February, is carried at a range of retailers in the U.S., the U.K., Japan, China, Italy and Canada, and online.
Owned by Clarins Group and best known for its best-selling scent Angel, Thierry Mugler lost momentum with fashion in the minimalist Nineties, and in 2003, Clarins shuttered the money-losing fashion business, selling its remaining four stores and Anger, France-based factory to Balmain.
Mugler subsequently licensed out its men’s wear to focus mostly on building its fragrance portfolio, which includes the scents Alien, Womanity, Cologne and Amen.
Mugler quietly resuscitated its women’s wear line in 2008, tapping Rosemary Rodriguez, an alumna of the house who had previously been at Paco Rabanne, as creative director for women’s wear and men’s wear. Formichetti, a half-Italian, half-Japanese wunderkind who was touted by Mugler as being “on the cutting edge of international pop culture,” succeeded her.
According to Formichetti, sales of Mugler perfumes increased since he started at the firm, suggesting fashion and perfume remain good business bedfellows.
He said his proudest achievement was giving the Mugler name fresh currency with young people, especially via his collaborations with Gaga and Genest.
“In a way, we had to start from scratch. What we had was a great legacy and DNA,” Formichetti mused. “We were all new to the project, so we were all fearless. We just did it.”
My character, Dinah Madani, is just the coolest, [most] badass woman imaginable," says @amberroserevah. The actress stars in @marvel's newest series on @netflix, @thepunisher. To prepare for her role, Revah sat down with Homeland agents to get a real sense of with Dinah's day-to-day life is really like. Read our full interview on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
A scene from the 91st annual @macys Thanksgiving Day Parade. The parade, which boasts 50 million TV viewers and 3.5 million on-site spectators, is considered one of the largest and most watched parades in the world. (📷: Jason Szenes/EPA-REX)
The circus came to @bloomingdales 59th Street on Tuesday night and lit up Lexington Avenue with acrobatic dancers, death-defying knife throwing, sword swallowing and aerial acts with no net. The 45 minutes of theatrics built up to unveiling the holiday windows depicting @swarovski crystal-encrusted circus pieces and scenes from “The Greatest Showman” – songs from the soundtrack included. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Joshua Scott)
The psychedelic fashion that pervaded the ’60s is back with an exhibit at the @museumofcityny. “Mode New York: Fashion Takes a Trip” chronicles the changing styles from 1960 through 1973 and features designers such as @ysl, @oscardelarenta and more. The exhibition, which is on display through April 1, is organized into four periods: First Lady Fasion, Youthquake, New Bohemia and New Nonchalance. Pictured here is model Pat Bardonella during the Garvey Day Parade in 1968. (📷: @kwamebphoto) #wwdeye #wwdfashion
“People should be a lot more honest in expressing both the dark and light of themselves. We need to give each other the space to do that because it’s the only way we can grow and evolve,” says @noelwells of her new film “Mr. Roosevelt,” which is largely based on her own struggles. Unexpectedly leaving @nbcsnl in 2014 after just one season, Wells felt set back in her self-esteem and career trajectory. She quickly refocused her energy to more personal projects, which led to the completion of “Mr. Roosevelt.” Read the rest of WWD’s interview with the “Master of None” actress on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
@barbrastreisand is giving fans a chance to see her perform up close in a new concert series, which makes its debut on @Netflix today. From behind-the-scenes takes to her concert performance in Miami last December, the two-hour streaming special captures Streisand in her element. Pictured here is the singer/actress photographed for WWD in 1963. (📷: Palmieri Tony) #wwdeye #wwdarchive
@chanel and @pharrell dropped what’s being dubbed as the world’s most exclusive sneakers yesterday. The Adidas Originals NMD Hu, which Williams designed in collaboration with Chanel and @adidasoriginals, has a waiting list of over 120K people who pre-registered online at chanelatcolette.fr –– and only 500 pairs are on sale. The singer predicted the resale value of the shoes could reach $40K. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdfashion (📷: Dominique Maître)
@imanshumpert is diving deeper into his creative endeavors and relaunching his clothing line, Post 90s, and is helping to raise money for the hurricane victims in St. Maarten with a jersey he’s designed with his brother. The Cleveland Cavaliers player talked to WWD about kneeling during the national anthem, working with fashion brands and how he wants to be more than an @nba player. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)