When Adam Selman launches his collection Sept. 5 at a presentation at the Algus Greenspon Gallery during New York Fashion Week, it will be among one of the smaller venues in which his designs have made their debut. As Rihanna’s primary costume designer for the past two years, Selman’s work has not lacked for exposure, even if he has labored somewhat anonymously. Rihanna has 31.2 million followers on Twitter and 9.4 million on Instagram, where she regularly posts suggestive selfies that show off custom pieces by Selman, such as the barely there bikini — which featured a bejeweled cage for her breasts — she wore earlier this month during Carnival in her native Barbados. “The crazy thing is that every girl from 18 to 30 is wearing a costume like that,” said Selman, who accompanied Rihanna on the trip. “It wasn’t as scandalous as it looks in pictures, but after going and seeing Carnival, the bikini that I first made for her made a lot more sense.” He was referring to his first design for the singer, a Swarovski Elements bikini that looked like candy that he worked on with Tom Binns.
Not coincidentally, Selman is obsessed with swimwear because it can be “a little bit more ridiculous.” There’s a swim component to his spring collection, worked in a wearable way, along with soft lingerie and athletic references. There are boxy tops based on hockey jerseys, sweatshirts and pretty satin pastel robes and slip dresses. A kicky cotton twill skirt is paired with a matching jacket. Two of his main points of reference are the 1981 HBO special on supermodels called “Beautiful Baby, Beautiful” and the soft-focus sexpot glamour of Seventies Francesco Scavullo Cosmopolitan magazine covers. “It’s sexy. It’s that fantasy woman but it’s also sporty,” said Selman, surrounded by examples of vintage Cosmo covers, the models tan, toned and mostly clad in some form of spandex. “I really respond to that.” RELATED STORY: NYFW Newcomers — Nellie Partow >>
Selman grew up primarily in Texas, in a “superathletic household.” He and his sister were cheerleaders, his brother played baseball and basketball and his dad coached. He moved to New York 13 years ago to study at Pratt, and eventually took a freelance design job with Zaldy, working with him on L.A.M.B. and celebrity tours, which included Lady Gaga’s Monster Ball and Michael Jackson’s ill-fated This Is It tour. When Mel Ottenberg was called to style Rihanna’s 2011 Loud tour, he brought in Selman, his boyfriend of five years, to help. “I thought it was just a tour — ‘Great. So much fun,’” said Selman of working with Rihanna. “And then she just kept calling and calling, ‘Do you want to make me this?’” She’s kept him steadily busy for two years straight with the 777 Tour, promoting Unapologetic and the Rihanna for River Island collection, a two-season line for the high street retailer, for which Selman served as head designer. It was that project that got him thinking about officially doing his own thing.
Used to operating under 48-hour deadlines for celebrity requests, Selman worked quickly, putting his own line together in two months with New York factories with which he had established relationships. Ottenberg is styling and Jen Brill is working as creative consultant. Selman hasn’t determined pricing exactly; he wants it to be “accessible,” around $400 retail for a dress. He plans to start small with distribution: Opening Ceremony, Net-a-porter and Barneys New York are on his wish list. “I would hate to do something that I can’t manufacture,” he said. “That would be my worst nightmare.”
There'll be no rest for those headed to Europe for men's, as Paris just closed the gap with Milan. According to a provisional calendar released by the Chambre Syndicale, Paris Men's Week will now open a day earlier on January 16. See new highlights on the official lineup on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
BREAKING: Jonathan Saunders is leaving @DVF. The designer has resigned from his position as chief creative officer of Diane von Furstenberg, the company said in a statement on Friday. At the time of his hire, von Furstenberg said Saunders’ arrival symbolized and facilitated her stepping back from the day-to-day duties that occupy the work of a full-time creative director. The British designer joined DVF in May 2016 and was in charge of all product categories. #wwdnews
For @versace_official’s spring ad campaign, the brand emphasized the archival prints from the spring tribute collection dedicated to the late Gianni Versace. Closing out the show were five of Gianni’s favorite models: Cindy, Naomi, Carla, Helena, and Claudia. Bowing on December 18, the new campaign is yet another tribute to supermodel-dom as the images by Steven Meisel are fronted by @iamnaomicampbell, @cturlington, @gisele and more. #wwdfashion
Four-time Oscar-nominated actress Annette Bening has been waiting 20 years to play Gloria Graham in "Film Stars Don't Die in Liverpool," which will be released on December 29. The movie about Graham – a Hollywood star known for her controversial relationship with a younger Englishman named Peter Turner – is based off a memoir Turned wrote. "She felt vulnerable to him, because she loved him, she really did love him. And anyone that we really truly are in love with, we re vulnerable to in a very deep way," said Bening. Read our full interview with the modern icon of an actress on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @ninebagatelles; Styled by @cristinaehrlich)
The crisp white button down: a staple that can be dressed up or down and accessorized throughout the decades. Here, on a Art Basel-goer in 2017 on the left and on the iconic Audrey Hepburn in “Roman Holiday” in 1953 on the right. #tbt #wwdfashion (📷: Andrew Morales)
Known for her work with @victoriassecret, 25-year-old model @georgiafowler is raising her profile in Hollywood. Fowler stars in @vincecamuto’s holiday campaign, which launched in partnership with “Pitch Perfect 3.” “Almost every shoot with Vince Camuto, I’ve had to face a fear…It was definitely a challenge. I’m so grateful for it, though. I’ve always wanted to be a pop star, so that was the perfect chance,” Fowler said. Head to WWD.com to read about Fowler’s experience modeling, including at the #VSFashionShow, and her relationship with Nick Jonas. #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
EXCLUSIVE: Huda Kattan just became the first beauty influencer to land a major beauty deal. Kattan's business, @hudabeauty, has received a minority investment from private equity firm TSG Consumer Partners. The brand, which industry sources say is on track to do $200 million in retail sales for 2017, will receive support on product, retail and geographic expansion through the deal. Get all the details on the deal and read @_a_collins' interview with Kattan on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdbeauty #wwdnews
Peruvian model @juanaburga_official – who is known for walking the runways of @rodarte, @viviennewestwood and @torybuch – is making the move to the big screen with drama “Los Últimos.” The film premiered in Argentina in November and arrives in the U.S. and Europe in 2018. On making the switch from modeling to acting, Burga told WWD: “It’s a completely different thing – a lot of people think it’s similar or try to connect things, especially like getting used to the camera or being looked at all the time or playing these different characrers, but film is a completely different story.” #wwdeye (📷: @jgreenery)
London’s newly opened @designmuseum will look back on the life and work of Azzedine Alaïa in a show that the designer helped to curate before he died of heart failure last month. The retrospective, which Alaïa had worked on with Mark Wilson, chief curator of the @groningermuseum, will look at the impact of his work worldwide. The show, “Azzedine Alaïa: The Couturier,” will run from May 10 to October 7. Read more about the exhibit on WWD.com #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @zefashioninsider)