Los Angeles Fashion Week, which begins Friday, will offer a little bit of everything, from designers who are focusing on the needs of working women to those who are more adventurous.Guy BaxterWhen Braxton and Turya Nations packed up their car in Nashville and headed West with $3,000 in March 2003, they never thought they would be selling a clothing line in boutiques such as Opening Ceremony, Curve and Louis Boston. But many ramen noodles and peanut butter-and-jelly sandwiches later, the married couple is producing the Guy Baxter line in their Los Angeles garment district studio. They will present the third Guy Baxter collection at the Addison + Crescent showroom on March 12. Turya, a Teaneck, N.J., native, and Braxton, from St. Louis, met in a music class at Nashville Technical College. While Braxton pursued a career in music production, Turya began designing clothes and styling for musicians. Turya, who is fond of watching old movies without the sound, was inspired by the look of Konstantin Stanislavsky's Moscow theater circa 1890. The collection is primarily black and charcoal gray, with one timeless print and a shot of electric blue. "I thought, how would a modern-day person in that art scene adapt that look? I liked the oversize jacket and high-waisted pants with antique hardware," said Turya, who crafted the pants without side seams, just a pintuck in the front. The rest of the line is similarly detailed: A wool yoked gown has beaded velvet trim and ties, and a silk dress has a high-waisted sash inspired by a photo of a French madame. Several pieces, such as men's wear-inspired vests, wide-legged pants and ruffled blouses, carry through each collection, including the spring 2009 collection Turya already has started working on. Wholesale price points range from $82 for a sleeveless top to $295 for a long trenchcoat. "Compared to a 9-to-5 job, this is fun," she said. — Marcy MedinaOrthodoxEric Niccole, who was raised in Huntington Beach, Calif., and lives in Los Angeles' historic West Adams neighborhood, is steeped in Southern California style — and it doesn't always meet his standards. "It often gets stuck in ruts," he said. "I'd like to evolve it."
Niccole, 31, started the men's wear label Orthodox in 2005 and now he's launching a line for women that attempts to translate masculinity for the female customer. "There is a lot of girlishness in the market, and there was a void for balance between a feminine and more androgynous, boyish look," he said. A jacket that fades from black to charcoal is a Niccole favorite. Other notable pieces include high-waisted trousers and a dress with a geometric Franz Kline-inspired print. "I definitely try to push the envelope, but in such a way that is not offensive to buyers and the end consumer," Niccole said. Wholesale price points for Orthodox's women's line, showing Sunday at Smashbox Studios, range from $42 to $250, and Henri Bendel and Rolo in San Francisco have picked it up. But Niccole, who dabbles in the music and restaurant businesses, as well, isn't stopping with clothing. "My dream would be to further brand Orthodox and allow it to affect culture through different mediums," he said. Of course, Niccole assures, fashion would be the cornerstone. — Rachel BrownJesse KammJesse Kamm's take on modern life? It's a jungle out there. Kamm will present her sixth collection, "Into the Bush," in a Gen Art installation on Friday."Technology is moving so fast, I feel as though we're all on the brink of adventure," she said. The designer was inspired by "Crocodile Dundee" actress Linda Kozlowski, who wore loose, high-waisted khakis, oversize jackets and scarves in the 1986 Australian outback caper, as well as Yves Saint Laurent safari icons Veruschka and Lauren Hutton. "I imagined these sophisticated ladies going to places of exploration."The 15-piece collection includes odes to the safari dress and a flight suit as well as Kamm's signature tunics and halter dresses. As she does each season, Kamm creates artwork that she screen-prints onto cotton and linen. This time she was inspired by nature: bird tracks, tortoiseshells and tree rings. "My theory is that everyone leaves behind a mark, and this is my mark," she said. Wholesale prices range from $110 for tops to $500 for long dresses. Kamm, 32, began designing when she quit modeling three years ago, took a sewing class and started making herself clothes. She attracted her first customers while wearing her designs in Ron Herman. Los Angeles fashion maven Liz Goldwyn then wore a piece into the Paris boutique Colette, which later placed an order. Kamm's stores now include Restir in Tokyo; Vakko in Turkey; Madison and Presse in Los Angeles; A'maree's in Newport Beach, Calif.; Blake in Chicago, and Finn in Toronto. Kamm, a one-woman show, produces 100-piece runs of her screen-printed pieces and more of the solids, explaining: "I'm taken by detailed, handcrafted work that is not mass produced."
Virgil Abloh’s dad Nee and Don Crawley, cofounder of RSVP Gallery, were some of the hometown crew at the Chicago-born designer’s debut show for Louis Vuitton. (📸: @jdiderich ) #wwdmens #louisvuitton #virgilabloh
About last night: @marycharteris and @adwoaaboah hit up Hyde Park for the Serpentine Galleries’ annual summer party held in partnership with @chanelofficial. Head to WWD.com to see more photos. #wwdfashion
“This is Paris, my first show. I’m all about democracy. If some kid shows up, flew from New Jersey to just be around, let’s get him a seat.” — @virgilabloh tells WWD’s @jdiderich ahead of his first show for @louisvuitton men’s. (📸: @alfredo_piola ) #wwdmens #virgilabloh #louisvuitton
“Kate Spade was a true fashion icon who brought joy to the lives of women around the world, and inspired women to live life to the fullest. We are dedicated to carrying on her legacy,” said Anna Bakst, brand president and chief executive officer of @katespadeny. The Kate Spade Foundation announced that it will be donating $1 million to suicide prevention and mental health awareness in tribute to the recent death of Kate Spade. Read more on WWD.com. #wwdnews (📷: @chinseephoto)
A first look at @virgilabloh’s sneakers for @louisvuitton. Abloh spoke to WWD about his debut collection for Louis Vuitton, creating @kendalljenner’s #metgala outfit and redefining the heritage brand. Read the full story on WWD.com. #wwdfashion 📷: @alfredo_piola)
The world’s largest producer of denim @iskodenim is sharing the strategy behind its product development process. Read our full interview with ISKO’s product development manager Baris Ozden on the company’s extensive research practices, upcoming denim trends and the latest material innovations on WWD.com. #iskodenim
“I genuinely fell in love with water, I fell in love with Fiji, I fell in love with the whole life that we lived for those few months,” says @mrsamclaflin of filming for his new movie “Adrift” with @shailenewoodley. The 31-year-old actor spoke with WWD about his upcoming projects, meeting Jamie Dornan and working with co-star Woodley. #wwdeye (📷: @jamstoker)
3 years ago, fans of the late singer Aaliyah started calling for a collaboration with @maccosmetics. With the strength of social media — including mock ups of products — 25,000 people signed a Change.org petition for a limited-edition collection, and MAC couldn’t ignore the buzz. Tomorrow, MAC will unveil MAC x Aaliyah, a tribute to the singer who passed away nearly 17 years ago. Head to our stories to preview the new collection, which was worked on by Aaliyah’s family and inspired directly by her makeup bag. #wwdbeauty
Artistic director @clarewaightkeller will be dedicating @givenchyofficial’s fall 2018 couture show in Paris on July 1 to house founder Hubert de Givenchy, who passed away in March at age 91. Givenchy said the collection would be “an homage to his iconic creations, technique, and personal lexicon” and a “celebration of his timeless elegance and grace.” Head to WWD.com to read more. #wwdfashion (📷: Delphine Achard)