Los Angeles Fashion Week, which begins Friday, will offer a little bit of everything, from designers who are focusing on the needs of working women to those who are more adventurous.
When Braxton and Turya Nations packed up their car in Nashville and headed West with $3,000 in March 2003, they never thought they would be selling a clothing line in boutiques such as Opening Ceremony, Curve and Louis Boston. But many ramen noodles and peanut butter-and-jelly sandwiches later, the married couple is producing the Guy Baxter line in their Los Angeles garment district studio. They will present the third Guy Baxter collection at the Addison + Crescent showroom on March 12.
Turya, a Teaneck, N.J., native, and Braxton, from St. Louis, met in a music class at Nashville Technical College. While Braxton pursued a career in music production, Turya began designing clothes and styling for musicians. Turya, who is fond of watching old movies without the sound, was inspired by the look of Konstantin Stanislavsky's Moscow theater circa 1890. The collection is primarily black and charcoal gray, with one timeless print and a shot of electric blue.
"I thought, how would a modern-day person in that art scene adapt that look? I liked the oversize jacket and high-waisted pants with antique hardware," said Turya, who crafted the pants without side seams, just a pintuck in the front. The rest of the line is similarly detailed: A wool yoked gown has beaded velvet trim and ties, and a silk dress has a high-waisted sash inspired by a photo of a French madame. Several pieces, such as men's wear-inspired vests, wide-legged pants and ruffled blouses, carry through each collection, including the spring 2009 collection Turya already has started working on. Wholesale price points range from $82 for a sleeveless top to $295 for a long trenchcoat. "Compared to a 9-to-5 job, this is fun," she said.
— Marcy Medina
Eric Niccole, who was raised in Huntington Beach, Calif., and lives in Los Angeles' historic West Adams neighborhood, is steeped in Southern California style — and it doesn't always meet his standards. "It often gets stuck in ruts," he said. "I'd like to evolve it."
Niccole, 31, started the men's wear label Orthodox in 2005 and now he's launching a line for women that attempts to translate masculinity for the female customer. "There is a lot of girlishness in the market, and there was a void for balance between a feminine and more androgynous, boyish look," he said.
A jacket that fades from black to charcoal is a Niccole favorite. Other notable pieces include high-waisted trousers and a dress with a geometric Franz Kline-inspired print. "I definitely try to push the envelope, but in such a way that is not offensive to buyers and the end consumer," Niccole said. Wholesale price points for Orthodox's women's line, showing Sunday at Smashbox Studios, range from $42 to $250, and Henri Bendel and Rolo in San Francisco have picked it up. But Niccole, who dabbles in the music and restaurant businesses, as well, isn't stopping with clothing. "My dream would be to further brand Orthodox and allow it to affect culture through different mediums," he said. Of course, Niccole assures, fashion would be the cornerstone.
— Rachel Brown
Jesse Kamm's take on modern life? It's a jungle out there. Kamm will present her sixth collection, "Into the Bush," in a Gen Art installation on Friday.
"Technology is moving so fast, I feel as though we're all on the brink of adventure," she said. The designer was inspired by "Crocodile Dundee" actress Linda Kozlowski, who wore loose, high-waisted khakis, oversize jackets and scarves in the 1986 Australian outback caper, as well as Yves Saint Laurent safari icons Veruschka and Lauren Hutton. "I imagined these sophisticated ladies going to places of exploration."
The 15-piece collection includes odes to the safari dress and a flight suit as well as Kamm's signature tunics and halter dresses. As she does each season, Kamm creates artwork that she screen-prints onto cotton and linen. This time she was inspired by nature: bird tracks, tortoiseshells and tree rings. "My theory is that everyone leaves behind a mark, and this is my mark," she said.
Wholesale prices range from $110 for tops to $500 for long dresses. Kamm, 32, began designing when she quit modeling three years ago, took a sewing class and started making herself clothes. She attracted her first customers while wearing her designs in Ron Herman. Los Angeles fashion maven Liz Goldwyn then wore a piece into the Paris boutique Colette, which later placed an order. Kamm's stores now include Restir in Tokyo; Vakko in Turkey; Madison and Presse in Los Angeles; A'maree's in Newport Beach, Calif.; Blake in Chicago, and Finn in Toronto. Kamm, a one-woman show, produces 100-piece runs of her screen-printed pieces and more of the solids, explaining: "I'm taken by detailed, handcrafted work that is not mass produced."
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)
The @cfda has shifted the dates of #NYFW, with Men’s showing on February 5 through February 7, and Women’s will directly follow, running from February 8 through 14. The preliminary schedule will be released on the CFDA’s web site in the next few days, but Mark Beckham, VP of marketing for the CFDA, revealed that @rafsimons will be back to close the men’s-specific part of the week with a show on February 7 #wwdfashion (📷: Kelly Taub)
@ferragamo is introducing a new space dedicated to the development of women’s and men’s leather good samples. The laboratory, which is created eco-friendly materials and designed to reduce the environmental impact of the manufacturing processes, will allow the company to expand its accessories offering through traditional artisanal approaches. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
How does a “regular, degular, schmegular” girl from the Bronx, N.Y., become a Grammy-nominated artist with a certified platinum record in less than a year? Call it the @iamcardib come up. The 25-year-old has become a musical sensation, and the fashion world is taking note. “If I could describe her style I would say drama. She’s really into the dramatics,” says Cardi B’s stylist @kollincarter. See how Carter styles her bold and out there looks with the link in bio. #wwdfashion
“There is no formula. There is no guideline. I can watch Ted Talks all day, but there is no one who can advise me on exactly what it is I should be doing,” said @ronniefieg, CEO of @kith, in an interview with WWD’s @ariahughes at the brand’s new SoHo office in Manhattan. Head to WWD.com to see how Fieg went from hanging out in shoe stockrooms at 13 to building his own business. #wwdfashion (📷: @weston.wells)
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion