A host of fresh — and returning — names will dot the London fashion scene this season. Here's some of the city's buzziest talent.
Krystof Strozyna Krystof Strozyna launched his MA collection at the Central Saint Martins graduate show in London last year, and was a first-time winner of the New Generation sponsorship from Topshop and the British Fashion Council. Shortly afterward, his sculptural cotton dresses, all in subtle shades of beige, were picked up by Harrods. And though his designs are minimal, the Polish-born, London-based Strozyna doesn't shy away from adornment. For the CSM show, his models wore clunky chain necklaces and oversize black lacquered wood bangles that were as much a feature of the collection as the garments. For fall, the designer has been inspired by Bauhaus architecture.
Meadham Kirchhoff After cutting their design teeth on a men's collection in 2002, Edward Meadham and Benjamin Kirchhoff made the jump to women's wear for fall 2007. In past seasons, the two Central Saint Martins alums and winners of the New Generation sponsorship have taken inspiration from diverse sources — from the photography of Mary Ellen Mark to what they call "Parisian bourgeois taste." For spring, that meant structured dresses inset with lace panels and sheer, billowing pleated skirts paired with bouclé jackets. For fall, the duo are set to riff on the idea of armor — in both its decorative and protective sense — with Nico and Tina Chow as their muses. "There is an element of toughness and sophistication about the women we dress," said Meadham.
Aminaka Wilmont Marcus Wilmont, a Central Saint Martins men's wear graduate, and Maki Aminaka Löfvander, who studied women's wear at Sweden's University College of Boras, bring elements of their respective design disciplines to their line, Aminaka Wilmont. The two, who are a couple, won London's Fashion Fringe competition in September. Their spring 2008 collection offered Grace Jones-worthy hooded dresses and tailored jackets with Space Age bold shoulder pads. For fall, they've mined similarly futuristic themes, taking their inspiration from the 1982 sci-fi film "Tron" and computer graphics of the same era. "The overall feel is modern, sleek and slightly otherworldly," said Wilmont.Vivienne Westwood Red Label Dame Vivienne Westwood is back in her literal — and spiritual — home of London for the first show of her successful Red Label collection. The line blends Savile Row-inspired tailoring with Westwood's signature corset shapes. This season, she said her muse was "decadence for a lost time...Marilyn Monroe, the dance of Fred Astaire and the bizarre King Kong love story."
Graeme Black Black certainly isn't new to fashion: During his 19-year career, he's worked at Giorgio Armani, designing the brand's Borgonuovo label, and Ferragamo, where he was head of women's wear until 2007. But the Scottish designer has returned to Britain for the first catwalk show of his namesake label. The collection, which he previously presented in his Milan showroom, has featured simple, draped gowns and such inventive separates as cape-like boleros. For fall, Black took his cue from his birthplace, using Scottish materials like cashmere yarn manufactured by Todd and Duncan and hand-knitted wool from Edinburgh. Colors include heather, bilberry (which resembles blackberry) and Orkney green. He says the handcrafted pieces "are light in construction and heavy on Caledonian glamour."
Ossie Clark London The Ossie Clark label will take its first steps toward a revival with a fashion week presentation. The storied house, which is being relaunched by Marc Worth, will show separates and maxidresses by designer Avsh Alom Gur. "It's important to bring the label forward and make it modern and contemporary," said Gur. While he tapped Clark's archives for inspiration, the collection has a definite modern edge. Prints inspired by Clark's Sixties and Seventies heyday are in a palette of reds, greens and burnt orange.
Edward Sexton "This collection is for real women," said tailor Edward Sexton, who will make his runway debut with an off-schedule show as well as an on-schedule presentation. "I'm very influenced by the Sixties and Seventies but with timeless elegance — what real women want to wear." And he should know: Stella McCartney trained with Sexton, and he is the go-to man for bespoke, tailored women's clothing. Sexton and Tommy Nutter created Bianca Jagger's oft-copied white wedding pantsuit. For fall, Sexton's collection includes cashmere coats, high-cut wide-leg trousers and shirts. He also collaborated with London-based trouser brand Slacks & Co.Jaeger London This season, British fashion stalwart Jaeger will host its first fashion week runway show for the Jaeger London line. Launched in 2005, the line was created to appeal to a more contemporary customer. "It's very much a design-led business," said Belinda Earl, Jaeger's group chief executive officer of Jaeger London, which is already sold in the Middle East, Japan and the U.K. "The Jaeger London customer understands fabrics, quality, cut and detail, which plays to our British heritage." For fall, designer Karen Boyd was inspired by Veruschka and Talitha Getty.
Poltock & Walsh The British design team Fiamma Poltock and Katie Walsh hotfooted it to New York to present their third ready-to-wear collection last spring in a show sponsored by Henri Bendel. But they're back on home turf for fall, showing their line on mannequins at the Exhibition, with help from a New Generation sponsorship, and as an off-schedule show at London's Science Museum during fashion week. The duo — who have done stints at Alexander McQueen and John Richmond — have played in past collections with sheer, layered chiffon dresses and miniskirts with layers of ruffles. For fall, they intend to work with cottons and wools, taking their cues from Madame Vionnet-inspired draping and Art Deco color blocking.
Felder Felder For their second runway collection at London Fashion Week, Daniela and Annette Felder will play on their signature look, which combines feminine fabrics with a design edge. "The theme of the collection is 'grunge de luxe,'" said Annette Felder. "It takes our signature a step further with a lot of layering." The brand, which also won a New Generation sponsorship to show at the Exhibition, is already sold in Selfridges and at Podium in Moscow, and elsewhere.
Nicholas Kirkwood Shoe designer and New Generation winner Nicholas Kirkwood will showcase his sky-high heels with subtle Japanese and Spanish influences. "They're quite dressy, but not in a traditional way," he said, adding fan-like details will appear on some styles. Kirkwood favored mini booties and closed-up styles for fall, mainly in shades of purple and black. The brand is sold at Harvey Nichols and Dover Street Market in London, Madison Los Angeles and Seven New York, among others.Charlotte Olympia Charlotte Dellal has, up until now, been best known as a fashion plate on London's social scene. But the daughter of Brazilian model Andrea Dellal and property developer Guy Dellal has a hidden métier, too. This month, the 26-year-old graduate of London's Cordwainers footwear design program will officially unveil her full footwear line, Charlotte Olympia, at the Exhibition. She produced four styles for Dover Street Market and four for Austique for spring, including wedges woven from raffia and silk stiletto pumps fashioned from Kimono fabrics. For fall, the glam mood is inspired by "nostalgic show pieces, reminiscent of American vaudeville, [in] dusty muted colors, with hints of red and animal prints." After fashion week, she'll show at the Crillon in Paris with Tom Binns, from Feb. 28 to March 4.
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews