New and noteworthy brands to check out at the upcoming men's wear trade fair.
Over the course of its 56-year history, Isaia has become well known for its expertise in tailoring.
But for spring 2014, the Naples, Italy-based luxury label will shine a spotlight on its expanded sportswear offering.
“We had a few items before, but not a fully developed collection,” said James Shay, president of Isaia’s U.S. division.
In both the sportswear and tailored clothing range, subtle military references are evident for spring. “There are slight military influences on the sportswear side and in accent clothing,” he said.
In sportswear, key pieces include perforated suede field jackets with elbow patches, which will retail for $3,595; slim cargos with military pockets; suede jackets with paratrooper patches; a bonded cashmere car coat with military pockets, and a quilted silk and cashmere hybrid blazer with a sunglass pocket designed to fit vintage aviator frames for $2,995.
The melton fabric lining the undercollars of the suits and sport coats will sport what the company is calling “coral-flage,” its own unique interpretation of a camouflage pattern blended with the brand’s signature Mediterranean red coral logo. “We change the melton every season to highlight the inspiration for that season,” Shay explained.
In tailored clothing, single-breasted two-button suits are still the top seller, although a two-roll-to-three is beginning to emerge in sport coats, he said.
Throughout the collection, color reigns. “There’s always a strong color story for spring,” he said, pointing to the purple, pink and orange sport shirts and sweaters as well as the brightly hued jackets and sport coats. “It really pops.”
In clothing, there are three main color stories: chocolate brown with lilac or yellow accents; gray with light pink or aqua, and navy with orange or green accents. “We infuse color like an eyedropper,” he said of the suits that retail for $3,250 to $4,200 and the sport coats, which sell for $2,495 to $2,900.
Throughout its collection, Isaia is working to inject a “youthful attitude” into its line to attract a younger customer — someone Shay said appreciates apparel that is “chic and luxurious yet playful.”
He also said that, at the company’s booth at Pitti Uomo, Isaia will have 14 mannequins on display to give retailers a feel for the highlights of the season. Sales for the line will be handled from the company’s showrooms in Italy, Japan and the U.S.
Isaia is a third-generation family-owned company whose product is available in the U.S. at Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus and Barneys New York, as well as a variety of independent specialty stores. The company also operates a flagship in Milan on Via Pietro Verri.— Jean E. Palmieri
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast