New and noteworthy brands to check out at the upcoming men's wear trade fair.
Over the course of its 56-year history, Isaia has become well known for its expertise in tailoring.
But for spring 2014, the Naples, Italy-based luxury label will shine a spotlight on its expanded sportswear offering.
“We had a few items before, but not a fully developed collection,” said James Shay, president of Isaia’s U.S. division.
In both the sportswear and tailored clothing range, subtle military references are evident for spring. “There are slight military influences on the sportswear side and in accent clothing,” he said.
In sportswear, key pieces include perforated suede field jackets with elbow patches, which will retail for $3,595; slim cargos with military pockets; suede jackets with paratrooper patches; a bonded cashmere car coat with military pockets, and a quilted silk and cashmere hybrid blazer with a sunglass pocket designed to fit vintage aviator frames for $2,995.
The melton fabric lining the undercollars of the suits and sport coats will sport what the company is calling “coral-flage,” its own unique interpretation of a camouflage pattern blended with the brand’s signature Mediterranean red coral logo. “We change the melton every season to highlight the inspiration for that season,” Shay explained.
In tailored clothing, single-breasted two-button suits are still the top seller, although a two-roll-to-three is beginning to emerge in sport coats, he said.
Throughout the collection, color reigns. “There’s always a strong color story for spring,” he said, pointing to the purple, pink and orange sport shirts and sweaters as well as the brightly hued jackets and sport coats. “It really pops.”
In clothing, there are three main color stories: chocolate brown with lilac or yellow accents; gray with light pink or aqua, and navy with orange or green accents. “We infuse color like an eyedropper,” he said of the suits that retail for $3,250 to $4,200 and the sport coats, which sell for $2,495 to $2,900.
Throughout its collection, Isaia is working to inject a “youthful attitude” into its line to attract a younger customer — someone Shay said appreciates apparel that is “chic and luxurious yet playful.”
He also said that, at the company’s booth at Pitti Uomo, Isaia will have 14 mannequins on display to give retailers a feel for the highlights of the season. Sales for the line will be handled from the company’s showrooms in Italy, Japan and the U.S.
Isaia is a third-generation family-owned company whose product is available in the U.S. at Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus and Barneys New York, as well as a variety of independent specialty stores. The company also operates a flagship in Milan on Via Pietro Verri.— Jean E. Palmieri
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