An eclectic crop of fresh talent, launches and newcomers to the Paris runway await Men’s Fashion Week, which kicks off here today.
Buzz has been mounting for a new project from Alexandre Plokhov, who with Robert Geller in the late Nineties co-founded defunct cult New York men’s label Cloak before going on to design for Versace’s men’s line.
Plokhov’s debut collection will be presented Jan. 22-23, alongside a video by Douglas Keeve and a group of portraits by Alex Freund.
AMI, a new collection by 30-year-old French designer Alexandre Mattiussi, is based on chic-yet-casual wardrobe essentials, such as coats and classic jackets in noble fabrics; flannel jeans and wool twin sets worked in sober hues with touches of blue, white and red. The line will be presented on Friday at the Macéo restaurant on Rue des Petits Champs.
Having started out selling artisanal pajama-inspired pieces in the Antwerp outpost of historic Florentine body care brand Santa Maria Novella, Italian designer Dominique Masullo will showcase his first full collection. The presentation will take place Jan. 23-27 in the Florence Deschamps showroom.
For Masullo, a beautiful silk pajama, nightshirt or robe can work just as well for the beach or a fancy restaurant as for the home. Featuring contrast piping in velvet or silk, the unisex collection is produced in Belgium.
Japanese professional boxer Arashi Yanagawa today, at the BMCS venue, will present his John Lawrence Sullivan men’s wear line, described by the designer as simultaneously conflicting, traditional and wicked. Elements include tartan jackets, soccer sweaters and short wool jackets, with studs and printed linings.
Following several seasons exhibiting at various apparel trade shows, Dutchman Sjaak Hullekes will step onto the runway at Paris’ Institut Néerlandais on Friday. Attention to detail and nature inspired his collection of basics, using an earthy palette.
Among new launches, meanwhile, is the Greg Van Rijck for Jean Paul Knott line, which will be presented at the Le Petit Endroit space Jan. 22-25.
Relaxed mix-and-match wardrobe essentials in quality cloth form the basis of the collection, headed up by Knott’s close collaborator Van Rijck. Items include wide flannel scarves for braving the chill and ultraloose pants cut to fall just above an ankle boot.
From a mock police lineup format to a mock restaurant, the settings for Maison Martin Margiela’s men’s presentations have always been as unique as the house’s fashions. This season, for the first time since the launch of the men’s line in 1998, the house will stage its first men’s runway show on Saturday.
Also taking to the podium, Acne on Sunday at Paris’ La Maison Rouge venue will stage its first men’s catwalk show on the official calendar of the Chambre Syndicale. Meanwhile, venerable French heritage men’s wear brand Arnys, which has specialized in made-to-measure men’s wear since 1933, on Sunday will stage its first ever runway show, to be held at the Théâtre Récamier on the Left Bank.
Breaking: @cushnieetochs’ co-founders @carlycushnie and @ochsmichelle are parting ways. After a 10-year run, Ochs is leaving the brand. Get the full story on WWD.com – link in bio. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
@maybelline’s Kanako Takase had snow bunnies in mind when creating the beauty look for @philipppleininternational. Playing off of the bedazzled snowboards in the collection, Takase mixed two highlighters together for a luminous sheen. #wwdbeauty #nyfw (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
“There’s a huge gap between the old way of doing things and today. It takes the youth to help evolve that. You have to count on the kids today to help lead you into the future. A lot of these retailers are stuck in the past. Communication is the biggest thing,” said @ronniefieg of @kith on the youth’s role in retail. On Monday night, Jeff Staple moderated a keynote session with Fieg and @syresmith at Assembly - a series of workshops, talks and keynotes addressing topics or issues in the apparel industry. Head to WWD.com to read more advice from Fieg and what Smith thinks of his dad @willsmith’s Instagram account and sustainability (📷: @weston.wells)
@joansmalls closed the @michaelkors fall 2018 show in black sequined pants and a varsity T printed with 19 on the front and 81 on the back. 1981 – the year Kors went into business. #wwdfashion #nfyw (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
“You think your life is going to be a certain way, and nothing you thought would happen ends up happening. Never in my wildest dreams did I think I’d be designing clothes and working with Mickey Drexler, and building something I’m deeply proud of,” said Jenna Lyons. Nine months after leaving @jcrew, Lyons is exploring the meaning of happiness. Read the interview, where Lyons talks about reinvention and more on WWD.com – link in bio. #wwdfashion (📷: Farrell) #jennalyons #jcrew