CHRISTIAN DADA

When Tokyo-based Masanori Morikawa foundedChristian Dada in 2010, he deliberately chose a nonconformist stance tofashion. Done mostly in black, his designs, with the Dadaism movement astheir leitmotif, embrace imperfections as integral elements of fashionand today count Lady Gaga and Kiss among their fans. Showing in Parisfor the first time, Morikawa’s spring collection, titled “Infinity,” isslated to incorporate 3-D jacquard and the Nishijin jacquard, atraditional Japanese fabric originating in Kyoto, along withembroideries whose fragility Morikawa wants to juxtapose with heavyouterwear, including leather biker jackets.

Morikawa, who used towork for London-based designer Charles Anastase, says he chose Parisover London (he previously showed in Tokyo) because it was “better forbusiness. London is an open door for young designers. But everyone comesto Paris, so we can show to a lot of different people. I would like to[cause a] worldwide Dada-mania,” he mused.

Christian Dada is currently stocked in 30 shops, including Opening Ceremony, I.T in Hong Kong and H. Lorenzo.

Prices range between 180 euros, or $244, for a shirt and 1,200 euros, or $1,631 for a biker jacket.

— PAULINA SZMYDKE


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MOHSIN

Moving his presentation from London to Paris thisseason, Mohsin Ali said, “London is very inspiring, but not the rightplace for my brand. Men’s wear for me has always been in Paris.” The38-year-old former buyer from Yorkshire, England, explained he alwaysapproaches a new season with a specific story in mind. “I listen to thefabrics; luxurious [ones] are key because they give you a better handle,and I design the product from there,” he said.

Spring 2015 hasthe Viennese arts as its underlying theme. Ali found inspiration inGustav Klimt’s paintings, borrowing from the artist’s golden period, afresh choice given the fact that Mohsin’s predominantly monochromaticdesigns focus almost exclusively on black. “You can’t hide behind black.Black allows you to go deeper into the silhouette and fabrication. Witha lot of color and pattern around, the eye automatically moves to otherparts of the garment, but I’m trying to steer away from the sharpnessof it, so there is also a bit of navy and brown in this spring-summerseason.”

Ali said it took him a while to figure out how totackle the metallic gold theme without being too conceptual, finallyopting for a quiet approach employing the flashy hue in bonding andgraphic inserts on roomy yet tailored silhouettes, perfect for the urbanmale.

Pieces span from 175 pounds, or $297, for a cotton shirt to 1,200 pounds, or $2,040, for a wool and Neoprene winter parka.

— P.S.

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