Back in May, a three-alarm fire tore through the top floors of 37 Crosby Street in Manhattan. Jean Yu, whose studio and 37=1 boutique are located on the ground floor, had to close up shop. Remarkably, the incident has turned out to be a blessing in disguise.
“The timing worked out, because I could take on projects and do other things,” says Yu, who has yet to reopen. “It led to a burst of energy for me.”
Indeed, not only was she free to collaborate with Rag & Bone and Proenza Schouler for their recent runway shows, but she’s also launching a collection of basics this spring, called 180 by Jean Yu. “It’s the opposite of what I do, really,” explains the designer, best known for her ultrafragile and meticulously crafted lingerie and separates.
And at first glance, this new collection of skinny tanks, oversize T-shirts and tube dresses appears quite similar. Shapes are clean; there are no prints or embellishments anywhere, and everything remains stripped down and spare. Even the triangle bra here is a close echo of her signature foundation piece. That 180, then? It’s about one word: ease. “The collection is easy-to-wear, easy-to-buy and easy-to-care,” explains Yu, adding that, in keeping with the low-maintenance vibe, she cuts the entire collection from durable materials such as rayon jersey, stretch silk chiffon and leather. Prices range from $36 for a bandeau bra to $144 wholesale for the leather dress. So far, Barneys New York, Ikram in Chicago, Ron Herman in L.A. and Dover Street Market in London have picked up the collection.
This isn’t the first time Yu has attempted to spin off a second line. Five years ago she started Milk and Honey, a short-lived collection of lower-priced cotton underpinnings. And just last year, she launched Matters of Leisure, a capsule lineup of robes, inspired by and tailored like a man’s smoking jacket.
In fact, the origins of 180 partly stem from the suitcase logo for Matters of Leisure, the distribution for which the designer now intends to shift to the hotel market.
“It got me thinking about clothes that would work in the confines of travel,” she says. “I thought, ‘What goes well in a suitcase, what travels well and what packs well?’”
The fire gave her license to become a globe-trotter in her own life and work, including for 180, which is produced in India. “It made me realize how physically tied I am to the operations here,” Yu continues, “how dependent I am to all these bulky things.”
Going forward, Yu plans to stick with the basic premise at the heart of 180 by Jean Yu — “alphabets for the wardrobe,” she says. Lingerie will naturally play a part, but the designer emphasizes that this is fully a ready-to-wear collection.
“It still has the refined construction, but I’m doing it in a way that’s more sporty and easy,” says Yu, highlighting the inverted, topstitched neon piping on a simple gray tank as a case in point. “I’m an item designer,” she adds. “The thing about fashion is that it changes too much and unnecessarily. This is about continuity.”
@chanel and @pharrell dropped what’s being dubbed as the world’s most exclusive sneakers yesterday. The Adidas Originals NMD Hu, which Williams designed in collaboration with Chanel and @adidasoriginals, has a waiting list of over 120K people who pre-registered online at chanelatcolette.fr –– and only 500 pairs are on sale. The singer predicted the resale value of the shoes could reach $40K. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdfashion (📷: Dominique Maître)
@imanshumpert is diving deeper into his creative endeavors and relaunching his clothing line, Post 90s, and is helping to raise money for the hurricane victims in St. Maarten with a jersey he’s designed with his brother. The Cleveland Cavaliers player talked to WWD about kneeling during the national anthem, working with fashion brands and how he wants to be more than an @nba player. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
Not only does #TheProfit return to CNBC tonight, but @marcuslemonis has launched @shopmarcus, a new shopping and lifestyle retail experience in Aspen and Chicago, with more locations to come. The retail stores offer in-store stylists and a variety of contemporary womenswear selections.
“It’s life, I’m going to face it,” @mingxi11 sighed. “I fell, but you know, I think the most important thing is that I get back up. I had the love, the help from my sister — the girl next to me Gizele [Oliveira] — she’s so nice. When I went backstage everybody was trying to comfort me like ‘Oh Ming, it’s OK.’ I’m really, really touched. I think it’s them who gave me the courage to go back on stage for the finale,” Xi told WWD of her fall at the @victoriassecret fashion show. (📷: David Fisher) #wwdfashion #vsfashionshow #victoriassecret
@louisvuitton tapped @therealpeterlindbergh for its latest city-centric photo book, which is part of a series called Fashion Eye. The primarily black and white book captures the spirit of Berlin in 57 images shot between 1989 and 2019. “Berlin is an inspiration for me, more than a city. I mean @millajovovich is simply Berlin!” said Lindbergh. #wwdfashion
“You know, I think audiences expect a certain performance so I have to deliver to them what they’re expecting to a certain degree. But I’m also a different actor and a different person, I have my own spin on the character,” says @noahegalvin of his takeover of the leading role in “Dear Evan Hansen” following the departure of @bensplatt, who originated the role. Read WWD’s interview with the 23-year-old actor on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
For pre-fall 2018, @etro created richly-colored wonderland, using tapestries, textiles and wallpapers from the Eastern world at large. The line featured floral and graphic prints and jacquard motifs, like this two-piece look featured here. #wwdfashion (📷: Giovanna Pavesi)
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)