GABRIELLE GREISS: For the launch of her namesake label, Gabrielle Greiss set out to create 20 artfully constructed dresses that feel as easy as a T-shirt but are still pretty special.
Her aim was to evoke a destroyed couture vibe à la Corinne Day, with Cecil Beaton’s photos of paperlike creations by legendary American couturier Charles James and the idea of Pina Bausch’s dance costumes in movement also flavoring the collection.
“I like the idea of finding this coolness in an evening dress,” said the designer. One style is a papery pigment-coated tan cotton skirt that hangs at the waist of a delicate silk organza slip, attached with a series of grosgrain ribbon ties. Another is a sweatshirtlike white cotton bouclé cape lending a sporty feel to an open-back gown.
Flitting between white and soft nudes, pinks and smoky blues, Greiss experiments with draping or superposes layers of colored organza, with beading adorning certain pieces.
Having worked for other designers for years (including an 18-month stint as creative director at Sonia Rykiel, as well as at Lanvin, Martine Sitbon and Anna Molinari), the designer sees the collection, which is produced in France, as the expression of her personal dreams stored up over the years. The line is co-designed with Greiss’ longtime friend Annette Hultzsch, who worked beside her at Rykiel.
Retail prices start at 1,000 euros or $1,325 at current exchange. Gabrielle Greiss will present on Oct. 1 by appointment. Contact: Lucien Pagès, +33-1-42-77-33-05.
— Katya Foreman
YANG LI: Paris’ lineup of new faces includes Yang Li, a London-based designer who, after two years studying men’s wear design at Central Saint Martins, was selected by Raf Simons for an internship at his namesake brand and to design accessories for Jil Sander.
Li was born in China and raised in Australia. His debut men’s and women’s collection centers on designs using stretch double-faced fabric in contrast colors, finished by hand using a technique only a handful of Italian factories can manufacture.
Infused with a military and sporty graphic rigor, the clothes, all well-finished, are stripped down to plain and minimal uniforms in simple generic shapes such as T-shirts, shirts, hooded zipped jackets, pants and shift dresses. Li describes himself aspunk hearted, but this is more about a quiet-but-intense intellectual rebellion than in-your-face aggression.
Yang Li will present from Sept. 30 to Oct. 7 at 26 Rue de Saintonge, 75003.
Leading luxury brand are shaking things up to keep up with streetwear. Case in point: the arrival of @mrkimjones as artistic director of @diorhomme. Jones, who succeeds @Kris_Van_Assche, is seen as one of the handful of designers who can actually straddle the luxury and streetwear worlds — which could lead to even more changes at established brands. What could this mean for the rest of the menswear landscape? Head to WWD.com to find out what experts predict #wwdfashion (📷: @franckmura)
“It’s like buying groceries. You’re going to buy the best mango, the best mozzarella, the best things. You have to, or others are going to take it all,” said @gabrielahearst on why she uses only the finest fabrics. Last week, Hearst received her first @cfda nomination for Womenswear Designer of the Year, and earlier this month she opened a permanent showroom in Paris. To read @jessiredale’s interview with the designer and find out why this is shaping up to be a big year for her, head to WWD.com. #wwdfashion (📷: @francoisgoize)
“It’s an interesting thing, playing a younger version of your mother. It’s an interesting concept. I adore my mom and love her in every capacity, but it was just something that had never crossed my mind,” says @anniemstarke on playing a young Joan Castleman in “The Wife.” The same role will be played by her mother Glenn Close. Read more about her growing up in the film industry as the daughter of producer John H. Starke and Close and what she has planned for the future #wwdeye (📷: @nataliamantini)
@asics is launching a new streetwear sneaker inspired by its latest ambassador, @steveaoki. The Hyper-Kenzen x Aoki, which will launch at @footlocker stores exclusively tomorrow, is a slip-on style that incorporates the brand’s proprietary Gel technology through beads integrated into the midsole for comfort and endurance. Read the full story on WWD.com.
@beyonce chose a custom gown by @falgunishanepeacockindia for mother @mstinalawson 's second annual Wearable Art Gala last night. The gown, which took 10 days to make, was inspired by Nubian warrior queen Amanishakheto. Reporting by @hernameislex . #wwdeye 👑 🐝#beyonce
After dressing @justintimberlake for his Super Bowl halftime performance last month, @stellamccartney has designed the star’s "Man of the Woods" tour wardrobe. Timberlake will be wearing a mix of pieces from McCartney’s fall men's collection as well as custom designs and items from his own closet. #wwdfashion