GABRIELLE GREISS: For the launch of her namesake label, Gabrielle Greiss set out to create 20 artfully constructed dresses that feel as easy as a T-shirt but are still pretty special.
Her aim was to evoke a destroyed couture vibe à la Corinne Day, with Cecil Beaton’s photos of paperlike creations by legendary American couturier Charles James and the idea of Pina Bausch’s dance costumes in movement also flavoring the collection.
“I like the idea of finding this coolness in an evening dress,” said the designer. One style is a papery pigment-coated tan cotton skirt that hangs at the waist of a delicate silk organza slip, attached with a series of grosgrain ribbon ties. Another is a sweatshirtlike white cotton bouclé cape lending a sporty feel to an open-back gown.
Flitting between white and soft nudes, pinks and smoky blues, Greiss experiments with draping or superposes layers of colored organza, with beading adorning certain pieces.
Having worked for other designers for years (including an 18-month stint as creative director at Sonia Rykiel, as well as at Lanvin, Martine Sitbon and Anna Molinari), the designer sees the collection, which is produced in France, as the expression of her personal dreams stored up over the years. The line is co-designed with Greiss’ longtime friend Annette Hultzsch, who worked beside her at Rykiel.
Retail prices start at 1,000 euros or $1,325 at current exchange. Gabrielle Greiss will present on Oct. 1 by appointment. Contact: Lucien Pagès, +33-1-42-77-33-05.
— Katya Foreman
YANG LI: Paris’ lineup of new faces includes Yang Li, a London-based designer who, after two years studying men’s wear design at Central Saint Martins, was selected by Raf Simons for an internship at his namesake brand and to design accessories for Jil Sander.
Li was born in China and raised in Australia. His debut men’s and women’s collection centers on designs using stretch double-faced fabric in contrast colors, finished by hand using a technique only a handful of Italian factories can manufacture.
Infused with a military and sporty graphic rigor, the clothes, all well-finished, are stripped down to plain and minimal uniforms in simple generic shapes such as T-shirts, shirts, hooded zipped jackets, pants and shift dresses. Li describes himself aspunk hearted, but this is more about a quiet-but-intense intellectual rebellion than in-your-face aggression.
Yang Li will present from Sept. 30 to Oct. 7 at 26 Rue de Saintonge, 75003.
@zacposen's go-to holiday gift? Cookies! "I'll usually bake cookies and send them as a gift," said the designer, who recently released his cookbook "Cooking With Zac: Recipes from Rustic to Refined." Get the recipe for his Brown Butter-Chocolate Chip Cookies via link in bio 🍪🍪🍪 #wwdeye #cookingwithzac
For @monsemaison’s pre-fall 2018 collection, Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim honed in on the brand’s many signatures — men’s wear, which was tweaked and feminized through deconstruction, proportion play and lots of bare shoulders. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
On Friday night, @yohjiyamamotoofficial received the Design for Asia Lifetime Achievement Award in Hong Kong. The 75-year-old designer has been celebrated for many years and is best known for his dark and avant-garde tailoring. “In my long career, in design, architecture, [I’ve been to] so many parties, this is the very first time that I have such a warm feeling, I really appreciate this,” Yamamoto said. #wwdfashion (📷: @dominiquemaitre)
Discovery is collaborating with British pop artist @philipcolbert on a new line of clothing and accessories called Discovery Shark. The collection, which will launch next summer for Shark Week’s 30th anniversary, features a whimsical line of women’s and men’s bomber jackets, sweatshirts, bags and more. #wwdfashion
“I’m always a big champion of a female rapper, and I’m glad to see a new voice that feels unique and authentic that’s coming up, and I think we’re going to see more great things from her,” said @itsjeremyscott about @iamcardib, who performed at @moschino’s Art Basel Miami Beach party last night. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
@janellemonae’s “What’s Your Frequency?” room in @refinery29's #29Rooms made its debut this week at the opening of the Los Angeles art exhibit. “It’s about the ongoing conversation around mass surveillance, the weaponization of technology and cultural uniformity. My space was created so that we can come together and talk about the complexities of our humanity,” said Monáe. #wwdeye (📷: @bucknerphoto)
@pantone announced their Color of the Year 2018: Ultra Violet. Nearly 20 months after the musician Prince’s death, fashion is having a purple moment. Varying shades of purple appeared on spring or fall runways, from @christopherkane to @calvinklein. @gucci’s Alessandro Michele bathed his fall runway in ultra violet-colored light at one point. Pantone 18-3838 is meant to “push the boundaries of what inspires us to look upward and outward to the future.” #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)