GABRIELLE GREISS: For the launch of her namesake label, Gabrielle Greiss set out to create 20 artfully constructed dresses that feel as easy as a T-shirt but are still pretty special.

Her aim was to evoke a destroyed couture vibe à la Corinne Day, with Cecil Beaton’s photos of paperlike creations by legendary American couturier Charles James and the idea of Pina Bausch’s dance costumes in movement also flavoring the collection.

“I like the idea of finding this coolness in an evening dress,” said the designer. One style is a papery pigment-coated tan cotton skirt that hangs at the waist of a delicate silk organza slip, attached with a series of grosgrain ribbon ties. Another is a sweatshirtlike white cotton bouclé cape lending a sporty feel to an open-back gown.

Flitting between white and soft nudes, pinks and smoky blues, Greiss experiments with draping or superposes layers of colored organza, with beading adorning certain pieces.

Having worked for other designers for years (including an 18-month stint as creative director at Sonia Rykiel, as well as at Lanvin, Martine Sitbon and Anna Molinari), the designer sees the collection, which is produced in France, as the expression of her personal dreams stored up over the years. The line is co-designed with Greiss’ longtime friend Annette Hultzsch, who worked beside her at Rykiel.

Retail prices start at 1,000 euros or $1,325 at current exchange. Gabrielle Greiss will present on Oct. 1 by appointment. Contact: Lucien Pagès, +33-1-42-77-33-05.

— Katya Foreman

YANG LI: Paris’ lineup of new faces includes Yang Li, a London-based designer who, after two years studying men’s wear design at Central Saint Martins, was selected by Raf Simons for an internship at his namesake brand and to design accessories for Jil Sander.

Li was born in China and raised in Australia. His debut men’s and women’s collection centers on designs using stretch double-faced fabric in contrast colors, finished by hand using a technique only a handful of Italian factories can manufacture.

Infused with a military and sporty graphic rigor, the clothes, all well-finished, are stripped down to plain and minimal uniforms in simple generic shapes such as T-shirts, shirts, hooded zipped jackets, pants and shift dresses. Li describes himself aspunk hearted, but this is more about a quiet-but-intense intellectual rebellion than in-your-face aggression.

Yang Li will present from Sept. 30 to Oct. 7 at 26 Rue de Saintonge, 75003.

— Laurent Folcher

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