MAXIME SIMOENSIt’s been more than a year since Maxime Simoëns showed a collection. In January 2012 he showed his spring 2012 ready-to-wear during couture week —rather clumsy timing given that he had sold the collection six months prior. But it got him on the radar. “We definitely gained some visibility showing during couture,” he recalled. “It was a great opportunity.”After a tumultuous year that had him rumored to be a contender for Dior and a fruitless attempt at the helm of French house Leonard, Simoëns said he took some time to concentrate on his own company. “This is really like a reboot,” Simoëns said at a preview at his studio and headquarters, explaining that the company has been almost entirely restructured.Luxury titan Bernard Arnault, chairman and chief executive officer of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, is now providing financial backing to Simoëns, along with strategic advice, as Dior ceo Sidney Toledano is coaching Simoëns on his fledgling business.In addition to rtw, Simoëns will show his first bag and shoe style along with some jewelry on the runway. For the clothes, Simoëns said he is really true to himself, building on silhouettes that are very structured with geometric architecture and feminine body-conscious appeal. “Sensual but not sexual,” he said. — Laurent FolcherNEXT: Pallas >>

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