Some new or noteworthy brands to check out during the Paris shows. OFFICINE GÉNÉRALE
Designer Pierre Mahéo confesses he designs primarily for himself. Launched in 2012 and now in its fourth season, his Officine Générale line will be brought to a wider audience for the first time in Paris after winning over retailers such as Odin in New York, Barneys New York and Andreas Murkudis in Berlin.
“Fabric is at the core of my design, it always comes first,” said Mahéo. The collection, mostly made in Portugal, is all about natural fabrics sourced in the best quality possible. Alongside wools from the U.K. and Italy, this season will see the introduction of a white selvage denim, a rarity he found in Japan.
His attention to details, some inspired by heritage tailoring and workwear, include newspaper pockets in the lining of coats and tightening tabs on the waist of tailored pants. These are mixed with activewear touches to create a classic wardrobe for the modern urban man.
Mahéo is also introducing shoes this season, with four styles in tune with his design ethos: a basic midhigh sneaker and three lace-up formal shoe styles based on a chic military officer type.
“We always had a lot of tailoring in our women’s collection. People were pushing us to do men, and now that we have developed our clientele, it felt like the right time,” said Brooke Taylor, who with his partner Nana Aganovich forms the duo behind the Aganovich label.
Their first foray into men’s wear is a capsule wardrobe conceived as the male counterpart to the women’s collection, hitting the same chords of theatrical and romantic inspiration.
Antique botanical drawing plates inspired the men’s logo, while natural linen serves as the fabric of choice for tailored pieces manufactured in the U.K. Quirky details include a clown face adorning the front of a white long-sleeve T-shirt and multicolored zippers at the back of jodhpur pants.
The palette of natural, black and white is dotted with shades of blue obtained with Bleu de Lectoure pigment, an antique natural dye that was worn by all of Napoleon Bonaparte’s soldiers. Here, it is used on jersey tanks and T-shirts, as well as for different motifs on cotton piqué shirts.
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