By and and  on September 28, 2009

A few names worth noting for Paris fashion week.


After watching the hit BBC documentary “Lost Land of the Volcano” — about new species of wildlife discovered in Papua, New Guinea — Giles Deacon couldn’t get creepy-crawly creatures off his mind. So he’s dedicating his spring show to them — and to some prehistoric beasts, as well.

“Think toxic tarantulas and hyper-reptilian fabrics,” said Deacon, who will show in Paris for the first time as the winner of a 2009 ANDAM Award. To mark the industry honor, Pierre Bergé will host a cocktail for the designer at the French Ministry of Culture on Tuesday.

At work on the collection in his East London studio, Deacon shows off a length of tulle dotted with spider appliqués, bolts of spotty, iridescent silks — and one pink-and-green fabric with a cheeky print of mating dinosaurs. Meanwhile, on a nearby table, black-and-red Swarovski-crystal-clad scorpions and scary bugs are lined up like toy soldiers, ready to be stuck on dresses and jackets. Accessories, too, have a natural-history bent, with one shoulder bag shaped like a baby triceratops, which will come covered in teddy bear fur or snakeskin.

In Paris, Deacon also will be showing and selling his costume jewelry — a debut 18-piece collection featuring spider-shaped rings, and baby mice, dinosaurs and headless chimps on necklaces and bracelets.

Materials include silk, pearls, gold and Swarovski crystals, and prices range from 220 pounds, or $328, for a Swarovski pearl bracelet to $3,280 for a hand-worked silk necklace. Deacon says he’s all revved up for his show at the Palais de Tokyo on Oct. 8. “It’ll be interesting to see where it all leads,” he said.


Georgina Brandolini looks right at home amid the upscale hippie atmosphere of Antik Batik’s Paris showrooms — and so does her new capsule line of sweaters for the fast-growing French contemporary brand.

“Sportive chic — something you put on over a pair of jeans,” said Brandolini of her debut 10-piece collection for fall, all in cashmere, hand-trimmed with delicate glass beads, often tone-on-tone, or splashed with rough-hewn metal sequins in heraldic shapes. The first styles, most also elongated into snappy minidresses, are slated to arrived in mid-November at Antik Batik’s three Paris boutiques, plus Net-a-porter and Daslu in Brazil.

Brandolini, who previously had a signature line of sweaters after a long fashion career at Balmain and Valentino, marveled at the retail prices — 285 euros, or about $418 at current exchange, for a V-neck, and 360 euros, or $528, for a dress — thanks to Antik Batik’s network of factories and artisans and a larger scale of production.

“We really never did so many sweaters,” piped in Gabriella Cortese, the Italian-born designer and founder behind Antik Batik, which sells its luxuriously embellished, bohemian clothes to about 1,000 doors. The privately held company recently opened boutiques in Dubai and Kuwait in partnership with Chaloub Group and plans to have about 10 boutiques in the Middle East region in the next five years, she added.

Cortese said the Georgina Brandolini for Antik Batik range would be targeted at “A-level” fashion shops. A spring collection, boasting silk and viscose blends, is in the works.

Georgina Brandolini (seated) and Gabriella Cortese wearing sweaters from Brandolini’s Antik Batik collection.


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