PACO RABANNE

Young designer Lydia Maurer, recently promoted to creative director after two seasons as studio design director, said she wants to put “the woman at the center stage of the collection.”

Inspirations include Marisa Berenson and Anita Pallenberg wearing Rabanne creations in the Sixties and Seventies, sexy and psychedelic.

Maurer’s debut collection references Rabanne’s iconic metal dresses, with the discs appearing in metallic fabrics, eyelet embroidery and silicon, while metal mesh is mixed with translucent water snake or textured silk and embroidered to blend the two fabrics. Eager to lighten things up and bring even more sensuality and movement to the intricately worked short dresses and tunics, she is creating some body jewelry pieces in collaboration with jewelry designer Taher Chemirik. There are also new lightweight, leather versions of the 1969 bag with a zippered closure, adding pragmatism to the house heritage.

— Laurent Folcher

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