Five emerging talents showing in the City of Light.
IRIS VAN HERPEN
Known for experimental couture creations like 3-D printed dresses, Iris Van Herpen wants to bring a similarly cutting-edge feel to her debut ready-to-wear presentation in Paris on Oct. 1.
The Dutch designer, whose fans include Björk and Lady Gaga, said the spring collection was inspired by sound, and the way it can connect to clothes.
“The way we will present the collection, music and the clothes will merge into one. The clothes will change the music and the other way around,” said Van Herpen, who launched her rtw label last season. She’s not sacrificing her penchant for Gothic drama, either. Materials will include metallic and matte leather embossed with silicon; high-gloss fabric woven from silk and nylon threads, and laser-cut patent leather — mostly in black, dark blue and silver.
“For me, it’s important to have not only the visual aspect of the clothes, but also the tactile experience,” she explained. “It’s about the movement and the way the material reacts with light.”
Christine Phung, a French designer with Asian roots, is rapidly gaining a following for her signature brand, launched in 2011. In July, she won ANDAM’s First Collection Prize, securing financial support and a spot on the official Parisian show calendar for her first runway show, to be held Sept. 25 at “La Suite” space operated by Galeries Lafayette.
Named “Liquid Dilusion,” her spring collection features three bespoke prints, one commissioned from artist William James Thurman, inspired by the idea of optical swirling motifs that resemble light refracted on skin underwater. These add a fluid touch to Phung’s intricately hand-pleated dresses, in a restrained palette of silver, gray, cream and electric blue, contrasting with more sporty separates like bomber jackets with matching shorts.
Alberta Ferretti's "Rainbow Week" sweaters are back. The designer closed her #MFW show with a few day-of-the-week sweaters, which first debuted on the catwalk last January as part of the pre-fall 2017 collection. #wwdfashion (📷: @delphineachard)