Having specialized in intricate textural effects at her fledgling brand, Paris-based designer Yiqing Yin is turning her hand to prints for her debut collection as creative director of Leonard.
“I haven’t used [prints] a lot in my own collections,” she acknowledged. But for Leonard, “I selected prints that I thought could have a modern resonance, once we updated them a little, colorized or sometimes even reworked them, and tried them out on fabrics the house is not necessarily used to working with.”
Yin transposed archival Leonard patterns onto fabrics such as wool, jacquard and a triple silk satin. She pleated, draped and layered them to break up the motifs and create multifunctional outfits in stark contrast with the house’s signature floral-print silk jersey dresses.
“I wanted to express a falsely nonchalant attitude, as if you draped a traditional Leonard silk scarf randomly on the body,” Yin said.
For instance, a bulky black sweater was slung over an asymmetric printed evening gown, while a tattoo-effect sheer T-shirt could be worn under a plain sleeveless dress.
Yin — who was born in Beijing but left China at the age of four — nodded to Leonard’s strong presence in Asia and her own heritage, sprinkling in design elements such as Empire waists and kimono collars and sleeves.
“I don’t want it to be a Japanese-inspired collection. Rather, it’s ‘grunge geisha’ — much more of a mix of genres and origins, with a kind of nomadic attitude,” she said.
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast