PARIS — It’s a collection made from leftovers — very preciousleftovers. Petit h, the Hermès little sister line founded by the luxuryhouse’s creative director Pascale Mussard in 2010, on Thursday opened apermanent space in Hermès’ Left Bank boutique on the Rue de Sèvres here.
A modular system of wooden cleats and brackets inspired by thehouse’s well-known mosaic patterns greets visitors at the store’sentrance. Thought up by creative agency RDAI, they can be individuallyadjusted to hang up, put down or attach objects, depending on their formand function “because I never know what I am going to work withtomorrow,” Mussard explained, while giving WWD a private tour of the newpremises.
Mussard, who represents the Hermès family’s sixthgeneration, said she always collected and amassed, explaining: “I had ahard time throwing things away as a child.” Now, she wanders dailythrough the house’s ateliers and picks up “whatever has fallen off thetable.”
What she gets her hands on, “It can be a scrap ofcrocodile leather or a faulty silk carré,” will find a second life in arange of objects that blend the French house’s savoir-faire and anoutside designer’s imagination.
Mussard does not like the wordrecycling. “I’m more at ease with the term up-cycling, or evenre-creation and renaissance. Recycling often implies that it’s justfixed up, while Petit h follows the rules of art and innovation. Andit’s really unique; there are not many maisons in the world that combinethis number of artisans under one roof. My idea was to bring them alltogether, because they never communicate among each other, and to havethem look at their craft differently from an outsider’s perspective.”
Thirtyinternational artists participated in the creation of the currentcollection, which has 2,000 to 2,500 pieces. New objects will beregularly added.
From the silk dye colorist to the leathercutter, all skills are put to the test. “This project is a creativeexchange,” explained Mussard, enthusing about the example of anultralight necklace made from a damaged silk scarf. “The silk had astain, so we cut it. Then Godefroy de Virieu, one of the artists wecollaborated with, had the idea to turn it into a collier. He took it toour plisseur, who said it was impossible, that it would never work. ButGodefroy insisted and together they found a way.”
The necklacewas pressed on a ribbed rubber hose “like a French waffle” to achievethe pleated effect, and now ranks among the line’s bestsellers, pricedat 145 euros, or $190 at current exchange.
The Petit h objectsrange from sculptural to functional. There is a chest of drawers thoughtup by French artist Christian Astuguevieille out of Rocabar, thehouse’s iconic textile, featuring handles that were taken from Hermèsbriefcases. Its price is 41,000 euros, or $53,883.
Broken piecesof the house’s precious porcelain plates served as image-makers forcrocodile skin-clad kaleidoscopes, which go for 2,600 euros, or $3,416,and necklaces (780 euros, or $10,250); leftovers from the chevronleather maker’s table were transformed into postcards, which are pricedat 80 euros, or $105, while some larger scraps of orange crocodile skinclad a cuckoo clock that whinnies every 30 minutes. “After all, we’rechez Hermès, and our roots are in equestrian,” said Mussard.
Oneof the most imposing pieces is a leather sculpture thought up by Dutchartist Marjolijn Mandersloot portraying a life-size couple of lionessesfor 75,000 euros, or $98,566.
In addition to the new space,Petit h will continue to be sold via traveling sales, which will takeplace twice yearly, the house confirmed. The next one will be inSingapore in July, followed by London at the end of the year.
Breaking News: @louisvuitton's men's artistic director @mrkimjones is leaving the French fashion house after nearly 7 years. Jones joined Louis Vuitton in 2011, following a three year tenure as creative director of British luxury goods brand Alfred Dunhill. Jones is to exit Louis Vuitton after showing his fall 2018 collection for the brand in Paris on Thursday. Read the full exclusive story on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
For men’s fall 2018, @giuseppezanotti drew on elements from streetwear, sport, biker, combat and rock ‘n’ roll. Pictured here are a pair of shoes from the collection, featuring zippers, rhinestones, and silver hardware. Head to WWD.com to see a roundup of the accessories from Milan’s men’s fall 2018 shows. #wwdfashion (📷: Andrea Delb)
To celebrate the 25th anniversary of @ralphlauren’s snowboarding collection, the brand is mining its archives. The iconic brand is reintroducing vintage styles and dropping new designs for a color capsule that will be available in Ralph Lauren stores and @openingceremony on January 25. The capsule will consist of 10 pieces, including the Snow Beach Pullover, pictured here, which is a collector’s item that rapper Raekwon wore in Wu-Tang Clan’s “Can It Be All So Simple” video. #wwdfashion (📷: Tom Gould)
For @rochasofficial’s pre-fall 2018 collection, creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua channeled the sophisticated and intriguing Catherine Denevue in the film “Belle de Jour.” Polished collarless coats, midi skirts, suits and ’60s graphic motifs were all featured in the collection, adding a sense of discreet luxury. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion
“We tried to produce clothing of that couture quality, but the most daunting part was that we only had a matter of days [to do it],” said costume designer Lou Eyrich, who recreated Gianni Versace’s iconic looks for @americancrimestoryfx. Eyrich searched online retailers and vintage shops for original pieces from the design house and for @penelopecruzoficial, who plays Donatella Versace. Head to WWD.com to read how she created the Versace world. #wwdfashion
Only three months after her stellar debut catwalk season, @kaiagerber has inked her first big design collaboration –– with @karllagerfeld. The collection blends Lagerfeld’s Parisian chic aesthetic and the model’s signature West Coast casual style via RTW, accessories, footwear and more. The #KarlLagerfeldxKaia collection will launch in September with a series of events. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
Harrods plans to remove the famous statue of Princess Diana and Dodi Al Fayed from the bottom of the Egyptian escalators and hand it back to Mohamed Al-Fayed. “We are very proud to have played our role in celebrating the lives of Diana, Princess of Wales and Dodi Al Fayed at Harrods and to have welcomed people from around the world to visit the memorial for the past 20 years,” said Michael Ward, Harrods managing director. “With the announcement of the new official memorial statue to Diana, Princess of Wales at Kensington Palace, we feel that the time is right to return this memorial to Mr. Al Fayed and for the public to be invited to pay their respects at the palace.” More on the news, with reporting by @loreleimarfil, at WWD.com. #wwdnews