MILAN — Alberta Ferretti is passing the baton to Natalie Ratabesi as creative director of the younger Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti line.
The British designer’s first collection for the brand will bow for the fall 2013 season.
A Central Saint Martins alumna, Ratabesi was previously a senior creative director at Polo Ralph Lauren. She has also worked for brands including Dior, Oscar de la Renta, Valentino and Gucci.
This is the first time Ferretti has entirely delegated the direction of the Philosophy brand to another designer. “I had been thinking about it for a while and felt this was the right moment to further develop the label in an independent way and differentiating it even more from the signature brand,” Ferretti told WWD.
She explained the decision will allow her to focus more on her namesake label in light of the market’s increased demands and of an increasingly diversified product offer. “Our bridal and demi-couture collections were originally only a few pieces, but they need more attention and time. The accessories category should be expanded. And I feel the need to be more present in more countries around the world. It’s a way to transmit one’s style, but it’s also a way to better understand different issues. It’s limiting to be closed in an office,” she said.
Ferretti praised Ratabesi’s “femininity and energy” and her previous “intense” relevant work experiences. “She is young, strong and determined, I’m sure she will be able to express the spirit of the brand,” observed Ferretti.
The Philosophy line was launched in 1984. In recent years, it has shown at New York Fashion Week. Asked if the brand will continue to do so, Ferretti said, “I want Natalie to feel that the project is hers also in terms of communication, but the idea is to remain in New York, it fits the brand and, also, she was living in that city.”
Ratabesi said she has always been impressed with Ferretti’s “enduring aesthetic, her clean and contemporary elegance,” and that it was her “desire to project Philosophy’s unique, timeless style and effortless femininity, which have always distinguished the brand, into the future.”
Massimo Ferretti, chairman of parent company Aeffe SpA, said that a lackluster economy needs “stimulating novelties,” and that an “evolution of the market banks on new designers.” He said that a designer’s creativity is called upon more and more, given the increasing number of presentations and collections. “There is a lot to do in so little time, the market is increasingly demanding and it’s essential to provide the right product and the best service,” he noted.
The arrival of Ratabesi “expresses the more dynamic and contemporary essence of our group, which looks to the future opening up to young individuals and offering them top-level opportunities,” he added.
Philosophy is available at 900 points of sale globally and 35 single-brand stores, including corners and shops-in-shop. Ferretti said the priority at the moment is “to push wholesale by offering a wider offer to clients and the right product.” Philosophy accounts for 10 percent of Aeffe’s sales, which last year totaled 246 million euros, or $341.9 million, up 12.2 percent compared with the previous year.
Aeffe controls the Alberta Ferretti, Moschino and Pollini brands and produces and distributes collections for Cacharel and Cédric Charlier. The license with Jean Paul Gaultier will shift to Gibò SpA with the fall 2013 season. In September, Aeffe struck a deal with Emanuel Ungaro to produce and distribute its women’s top line clothing and accessories, tapping young designer Fausto Puglisi as the brand’s new creative director.
@margotrobbie steps out onto the red carpet wearing @miumiu. The actress is nominated for “Outstanding Performance by a Female Actor in a Leading Role” in “I, Tonya” at the #SagAwards. (📷: Stewart Cook) #wwdfashion
For @massimogiorgetti of @msgm, the Nineties are his favorite decade. “They had a huge impact on my personal growth. What I like of the Nineties is that they are not so precise in terms of style as other decades…there was actually a bit of everything,” he said. As seen on MSGM’s Spring 2018 show: tie-dye and a bit of grunge, two styles that are synonymous with the decade #wwdfashion #wwddecades (📷: @kukukuba)
Breaking News: @hedislimane joins @celine as its new artistic, creative and image director. One of fashion’s preeminent image-makers and trendsetters, Slimane is to join the LVMH brand on Feb. 1 and unveil his first fashion proposition for men and women next September during Paris Fashion Week. It marks a major homecoming for Slimane, who cemented his reputation – and influenced men’s tailoring for more than a decade – as the designer of Dior Homme between 2000 and 2007. He went on to reinvent and ignite the house of Yves Saint Laurent, which he rechristened Saint Laurent, between 2012 and 2016 – all the while maintaining a close relationship with the Arnault family, which controls LVMH and Dior. Read the full exclusive story on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
“Personally I believe the Eighties have been the richest and more vivacious period for international fashion,” Giorgio Armani said when asked what his favorite decade of fashion is. It was a moment of disruption and experimentation and only thinking back to the first years of that decade is always an emotion for me, for what they have meant to me and my work.” The influence is clear in @giorgioarmani spring 2018 collection, pictured here, which was full of bright colors and unexpected prints. Read more about which decades designers loved most on WWD.com #wwdfashion #wwddecades (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
For Lady Gaga’s only Italian show on her “Joanne World Tour,” the singer wore a range of @versace_official outfits. The standout piece: this custom-made bodysuit inspired by the brand’s spring 2018 collection. #wwdfashion (RG: @ladygaga)
@_camillaruth_ is expanding on the wellness-craze concept with @westbourne – a new NYC restaurant that’s both a healthy-minded café as well as a business that gives back to the community. Marcus works with the Robin Hood foundation to give back to The Door, a non-profit providing youth development services, and also hires employees through The Door. Read our full interview with Marcus on giving back through food on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)