The upcoming Pitti Uomo trade fair in Florence will feature as many exhibitors as last season, and a fair amount of newness.
“In bad economies, good trade shows do well,” said Raffaello Napoleone, chief executive of Pitti Immagine, addressing a luncheon in New York on Tuesday.
One new aspect will be Pitti Uomo’s partnership with L’Uomo Vogue and Alta Roma to inaugurate a men’s wear counterpart to Franca Sozzani’s “Who Is On Next?” talent showcase, which has fostered the careers of Nicholas Kirkwood and Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi (then of 6267). Seven finalists will be on display, and the winner will be revealed during the fair.
Brooks Brothers will participate in Pitti Uomo for the first time, even though Pitti is no longer the epicenter for luxury tailored clothing it once was. Brooks will wholesale its signature collection and a smattering of Black Fleece.
Buckler, Christopher Fischer and A.G. Spalding & Bros. are also among the brands exhibiting for the first time. Malo, Lardini, Sergio Tacchini and Helly Hansen are returning after absences.
Swimwear brand Vilebrequin will unveil its first sportswear collection at the fair. Outside the Fortezza da Bassa, Ballantyne will premiere S+arck With Ballantyne, a collaboration with Philippe Starck. Mila Schön will launch men’s wear and commemorate its 50th anniversary with an event and dance performance.
Jun Takahashi of Undercover, Pitti Uomo’s featured guest designer, has planned a “performance” to present his spring collection.
Proenza Schouler, the featured designer for the affiliated women’s pre-collection fair, Pitti W, will also eschew a typical runway show, in collaboration with three American visual artists and in partnership with Yvonne Force’s Art Production Fund. Designer Lazaro Hernandez attended the luncheon without his partner Jack McCollough. He said McCollough was “getting better, staying in,” having suffered a broken nose last week following an alleged assault by actor Kiefer Sutherland. (For more on the incident, see Fashion Scoops, page 9.)
Taking the final spot on the mens’ portion of New York Fashion Week calendar next month will be none other than @tomford. Though he’s shown his men’s wear in New York in the past, this will mark the first time the designer has shown his men’s collection alone during New York Fashion Week: Men’s. His runway show will debut on February 6 at the Park Avenue Armory. #wwdfashion
London-based couture house @ralphandrusso has certainly been in the spotlight, having its dresses worn by @beyonce, Angelina Jolie, Meghan Markle in her engagement photos and more. For couture, Tamara Ralph focused on ornamentation — think: feathers with chain mail, jet embroidery and clusters of pearls and crystals. See the rest of the collection on WWD.com #wwdfashion #couture (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
Minnie Mouse celebrated her 90th birthday by getting her own star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame. For her celebratory luncheon, @coach’s creative director @stuartvevers dressed her in a custom made prairie dress, complete with Vever’s take on the polka dot – black sequined versions – under a cropped motorcycle jacket. The designer also put his own mark on Minnie’s classic red shoes, infusing the color with sparkles and adding some Coach crystals. “We chose colors that were very Minnie and also represented quintessential Coach elements,” said Vevers. #wwdfashion #nationalpolkadotday (📷: George Chinsee)
@nickjonas is unveiling his first-ever apparel collection through a partnership with John Varvatos. The limited-edition capsule, which makes its debut in spring, also marks the first time the designer has collaborated with anyone on a line. “The process in working with Nick is amazing. It’s inspiring to be around someone who is not only connected with the trade that they do, but also with what’s happening in the environment around him, and how that connects to what we do with style,” said Varvatos. (RG: @johnvarvatos) #wwdfashion
@margotrobbie steps out onto the red carpet wearing @miumiu. The actress is nominated for “Outstanding Performance by a Female Actor in a Leading Role” in “I, Tonya” at the #SagAwards. (📷: Stewart Cook) #wwdfashion
For @massimogiorgetti of @msgm, the Nineties are his favorite decade. “They had a huge impact on my personal growth. What I like of the Nineties is that they are not so precise in terms of style as other decades…there was actually a bit of everything,” he said. As seen on MSGM’s Spring 2018 show: tie-dye and a bit of grunge, two styles that are synonymous with the decade #wwdfashion #wwddecades (📷: @kukukuba)