MILAN — Italian men’s wear designers toned down their collections for spring with more casual, lived-in looks — and hit just the right notes with buyers.
“This was not a ho-hum season,” said Tom Kalenderian of Barneys New York. “I think the designers did an excellent job taking chances. They’re very serious about stimulating business. And creativity is king, because you have to create desire that says ‘I have to have it,’ regardless of price.” “Everyone was in a positive mood. We just talked about the future, how we can change the way we do business and what products we need to change the business. And all the designers offered that, just by showing much more sportswear, and just with more ease in the fit,” said Tommy Fazio from Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman. Prints and classic men’s wear patterns like Prince of Wales or houndstooth made a strong return, while bold reds and deep blues accented an otherwise predominantly gray color palette. The short double-breasted blazer and trenchcoat were staples in many collections and tailored clothing in general was wrinkled, underlining the relaxed out-of-the-office mood. Trousers were easy-fit, some with tapered legs or more pleats, while mesh and open-weave knits played to transparency and sporty technical fabrications breathed new life into sportswear separates. In general, retailers frowned upon anything that stepped outside the casual-chic vibe. “When designers went too bling, adding too many jewels or stones on the outside of garments, it just didn’t feel of-the-moment,” said Richard Johnson of Harvey Nichols. But the upbeat mood went only so far — buyers said they were working with flat or slightly lower budgets and reducing their mix of vendors, focusing on those that offered something new. “The new environment challenges us to be uncompromising in our selections.…Editing to those that do it best and offering focused assortments allows our voice of authority to resonate with our customers’ desire for leading style,” said Barbara Atkin from Holt Renfrew. Standout collections included Giorgio Armani, Alexander McQueen, Bottega Veneta, Burberry Prorsum, Ermenegildo Zegna, Etro, Gucci, John Varvatos, Moncler and Prada, retailers said. Here is what buyers had to say about the Milan collections for spring.
“I grew up in New York but I hadn’t really experienced the city in any type of touristy way…This was probably the first museum I really explored and took the time to see,” said @haileybaldwin of the @whitneymuseum. On Tuesday night, Baldwin was joined by Jemima Kirke and more at the annual Whitney Museum Gala and Studio Party, which honored Lorna Simpson, Joanne Leonhardt Cassullo and Beth Rudin DeWoody. See more photos on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
Displayed starting this week at the @fashiontextilemuseum: An exhibition on designer @orlakiely titled “Orla Kiely: A Life in Pattern,” which spans two decades and contains more than 150 pieces. “I want people to come away loving pattern and print. It’s something that makes you feel so good,” said the designer during a preview of the exhibit. Also on show are mood boards, samples, sketches and more. Head to WWD.com to see more photos. #wwdfashion
Exclusive: @dsquared2 signs fragrance licensing agreement with Euroitalia, with the first effort of the new partnership being unveiled in September. The brand will launch two scents – one for men and one for women – in Italy. Read our interview with designer Dean and Dan Caten on WWD.com. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: @zefashioninsider)
@louisvuitton has officially renewed Nicolas Ghesquière’s contract as artistic director of women's collections. "I am very pleased to open the next chapter of the story I started with Louis Vuitton almost 5 years ago," said Ghesquière, who first signed on to design the French luxury brand's women's line in 2013. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
“I learned then and there that I had to figure out a way in life to maintain and preserve my sense of pride when I felt good about what I did or what I represented or created,” said @saintrecords on how being bullied for wearing capri pants inspired her to be the artist she is today. Knowles was at the 70th Parsons Benefit last night where she outbid the room for a Dapper Dan customized @gucci experience. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
“There’s this amazing braintrust of people who know the whole universe so well. So we talked to them and they gave us more input,” said actor Alden Ehrenreich on playing the young Han Solo in “Solo: A Star Wars Story.” The cast was at NYC’s SVA Theatre last night for an advanced screening of the film, which hits theaters this week. #wwdeye #starwars #hansolo (📷: @aurorarosedecrosta)
@asaprocky spent nearly two hours in a Plexiglas box Sunday night at @sothebys putting himself through a series of “tests” to demonstrate the process of completing his new album called “Testing.” Get all the details and see all the pictures on WWD.com. #wwdeye
“I’ve struggled my whole life to find a bathing suit that fits me that doesn’t look like a maternity bra. I’m proud of the line because it’s an accurate representation of me rather than me putting on someone else’s clothes,” says @atlantabean of her swimwear collaboration with @piaarrobio, LPA X ATL. The two decided on a swimwear collab and increased the industry standard size for the pieces. Read more about the line — and our interview with de Cadenet Taylor and Arrobio — on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Dan Doperalski)