The news from the New York collections is Glamour, with a capital G. And retailers are lapping it up.
It seems as if everybody got the memo about ladylike and polished looks for fall, from established pillars such as Ralph Lauren and Donna Karan, to emerging talents like Joseph Altuzarra.
Standout collections included Marc Jacobs, Ralph Lauren, Michael Kors, Donna Karan, Carolina Herrera, Theyskens’ Theory, Rodarte, Jason Wu, Proenza Schouler, Alexander Wang, Thakoon, Chado Ralph Rucci and Phillip Lim.
“Bring back the glamour,” said Stephanie Solomon, vice president of fashion direction at Bloomingdale’s. “When glamour is back, it usually is good news for retail.”
“I saw beautiful, wearable clothes and I saw dollar signs,” said Jeffrey Kalinsky, executive vice president of designer merchandising at Nordstrom Inc., referring to Jason Wu. “He got all the elements right this season.”
Even contemporary designers featured dressed-up clothes, albeit at lower prices. “The contemporary market has always been casual, with sportswear and anoraks,” Solomon said. “This time, we saw luxurious fabrics, beadwork, real and fake fur and leather.”
Here is what retailers had to say about New York Fashion Week:
Colleen Sherin, senior fashion director,Saks Fifth Avenue Standout collections: Carolina Herrera, Marc Jacobs, Proenza Schouler, Alexander Wang, Rag & Bone, Phillip Lim, Jason Wu, Theyskens’ Theory and Calvin Klein.
Key trends — keepers: High-impact outerwear such as parkas, anoraks, puffers, peacoats, capes and vests, often with hoods and dramatic fur collars; new takes on shearling; culottes; tuxedo-inspired looks in blouses, jackets and pants; feminine skirts and dresses pared back to chunky knitwear, and global-inspired prints.
Stephanie Solomon, vice presidentof fashion direction at Bloomingdale’s Standout collections: Ralph Lauren, Donna Karan, Marc Jacobs, Michael Kors and the contemporary designers showing collections filled with references to Hollywood glamour.
Key trends — keepers: Trim or fur on vests or jackets; statement coats with leather sleeves or other interesting details; longer lengths such as pencil skirts, and ladylike blouses. It feels right to dress up again.
Key trends — losers: Very wide-leg, pleated palazzo pants won’t fly off the shelves this fall.
Linda Fargo, senior vice president for the fashion officeand store presentation, Bergdorf Goodman Standout collections: Adam, Alexander Wang, Ralph Lauren, Michael Kors, Carolina Herrera, Rodarte, Narciso Rodriguez, Jason Wu, Naeem Khan, Diane von Furstenberg, Oscar de la Renta, Altuzarra, Derek Lam, Theyskens’ Theory and Chado Ralph Rucci.
Key trends — keepers: As a reaction to this winter, outerwear and fur were exceptionally strong and diverse. Longer lengths, clean tailoring, plaids, pleats and lace. Black, gray and inky colors with reds — bright color for winter has broken through and will be in demand.
Sarah Rutson, fashion director at Lane Crawford, Hong Kong Standout collections: There were very few. Alexander Wang for his reworking of tuxedo shapes; Rag & Bone; Proenza Schouler’s Santa Fe prints and macramé; The Row’s spot-on tailoring, and Marc Jacobs, who gave us something different from everyone else’s huge lack of diversity.
Key trends — keepers: Colored fur and Mongolian lamb; fantastic knitwear; wide-leg pants, and some very well-executed tailoring. Lush color in berry tones and a strong pop of sharp blue, orange or red.
Key trends — losers: Midcalf-length skirts and dresses don’t look good on any woman and look so frumpy and old that they’re very hard to pull off; kilts and plaids, and, after three seasons, parkas.
Averyl Oates, chief buying director, Harvey Nichols, London Standout collections: Rodarte’s exquisite long dresses; Marc by Marc Jacobs’ Forties and the Seventies looks with a modern vintage feel; Alice + Olivia’s flapper-era dresses; Donna Karan’s sophisticated urban clothes and Oscar-worthy gowns, and Theyskens Theory’s slouchy jackets, coats and knitwear. At Marc Jacobs, all of the trends came together, but his Seventies influence was more strict and severe. The clothes, although in some cases extreme, were ladylike and sexy.
Ken Downing, senior vice president and fashion directorof Neiman Marcus Standout collections: Proenza Schouler’s multicultural references balanced with a ladylike point of view; Marc Jacobs’ knits and ruby red cigarette pants; Jason Wu’s ladylike elegance; Prabal Gurung’s outstanding show; Donna Karan’s clothes that will go from the runway straight to a woman’s wardrobe without a second thought; Alexander Wang’s return to the future; Altuzarra’s aggressive outerwear, and Thakoon’s electric blue and tomato red jackets.
Key trends — keepers: Colors such as cranberries and merlots mixed with magentas and shades of pink, and winter white — it’s becoming the new camel.
Key trends — losers: The whole idea of Seventies and boho was perfect for the spring season. My eye is laser-focused on the polish and elegance of ladylike dressing.
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over-the-top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty