LONDON — Roland Mouret’s first step in creating his new collection was to separate the men from the boys.
“I asked myself, ‘How do we grow from boys to men?’ I wanted to evoke a man’s attitude, to dress someone who’s comfortable in his own skin, who’s happy to open the door for a woman and who takes control of his life,” said Mouret during an interview from his studio, a former Victorian schoolhouse in south London.
For Mouret, this translates into a low-key, dark — and glamorous — collection known as Mr. that contemplative, rollup-smoking artistes, poets and filmmakers would happily don.
The collection, which will launch in Paris with a two-day presentation beginning Thursday, features 20 tactile pieces including a pressed bouclé jacket, a lambs’ wool trench with invisible closures and secret interior pockets and a stretch brushed-wool Crombie coat with a shawl collar.
There are also reversible cashmere polo sweaters, pebble jacquard knits and a milk fiber scarf hand-painted with the abstract image of a nude woman. “It’s all about texture and softness,” he said. “Men are very sensitive about clothing and often they are fussier than women. They like to treat themselves.”
Mouret has given his tailoring a twist, gently sculpting sleeves, softly draping white cotton shirts and adding stitch-through detailing — a signature from his women’s collection — onto the pocket seams. He’s also stripped the buttons off jacket sleeves in a bid to evoke what he calls “understated” luxury.
“I wanted a Savile Row attitude, but not all of the details,” said Mouret. “I wanted purity — and didn’t want to overload the outfits with symbols of money and power.”
Heaven forbid, he added, if his customer looks like a “banker or a bouncer.”
Mouret began thinking about this collection two years ago, and said he conceived it as a pencil drawing that started with black and evolved into shades of gray. He said among the many influences were film noir, Eighties Paris and Savile Row.
The philosophy, he said, is similar to that of his women’s collection: “These are clothes that you want to wear all of the time, clothes you can feel safe in,” he said.
Prices range from about 220 pounds, or $360, for a shirt to 750 pounds, or $1,220, for a jacket to 1,950 pounds, or $3,180, for a coat. Mouret said the collection is meant to hang alongside Lanvin, Yves Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta and Jil Sander on retail floors.
A limited edition capsule collection featuring Mr. trousers, a shirt, a trench and knitwear is on sale exclusively at Dover Street Market in London.
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
For men’s fall 2018, @giuseppezanotti drew on elements from streetwear, sport, biker, combat and rock ‘n’ roll. Pictured here are a pair of shoes from the collection, featuring zippers, rhinestones, and silver hardware. Head to WWD.com to see a roundup of the accessories from Milan’s men’s fall 2018 shows. #wwdfashion (📷: Andrea Delb)
To celebrate the 25th anniversary of @ralphlauren’s snowboarding collection, the brand is mining its archives. The iconic brand is reintroducing vintage styles and dropping new designs for a color capsule that will be available in Ralph Lauren stores and @openingceremony on January 25. The capsule will consist of 10 pieces, including the Snow Beach Pullover, pictured here, which is a collector’s item that rapper Raekwon wore in Wu-Tang Clan’s “Can It Be All So Simple” video. #wwdfashion (📷: Tom Gould)
For @rochasofficial’s pre-fall 2018 collection, creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua channeled the sophisticated and intriguing Catherine Denevue in the film “Belle de Jour.” Polished collarless coats, midi skirts, suits and ’60s graphic motifs were all featured in the collection, adding a sense of discreet luxury. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion
“We tried to produce clothing of that couture quality, but the most daunting part was that we only had a matter of days [to do it],” said costume designer Lou Eyrich, who recreated Gianni Versace’s iconic looks for @americancrimestoryfx. Eyrich searched online retailers and vintage shops for original pieces from the design house and for @penelopecruzoficial, who plays Donatella Versace. Head to WWD.com to read how she created the Versace world. #wwdfashion
Only three months after her stellar debut catwalk season, @kaiagerber has inked her first big design collaboration –– with @karllagerfeld. The collection blends Lagerfeld’s Parisian chic aesthetic and the model’s signature West Coast casual style via RTW, accessories, footwear and more. The #KarlLagerfeldxKaia collection will launch in September with a series of events. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
Harrods plans to remove the famous statue of Princess Diana and Dodi Al Fayed from the bottom of the Egyptian escalators and hand it back to Mohamed Al-Fayed. “We are very proud to have played our role in celebrating the lives of Diana, Princess of Wales and Dodi Al Fayed at Harrods and to have welcomed people from around the world to visit the memorial for the past 20 years,” said Michael Ward, Harrods managing director. “With the announcement of the new official memorial statue to Diana, Princess of Wales at Kensington Palace, we feel that the time is right to return this memorial to Mr. Al Fayed and for the public to be invited to pay their respects at the palace.” More on the news, with reporting by @loreleimarfil, at WWD.com. #wwdnews