PARIS — Sonia Rykiel has tapped Geraldo da Conceicao, a senior designer who has worked at Miu Miu and Yves Saint Laurent, as its new artistic director, WWD has learned.
A Canadian national born in Macau, da Conceicao is expected to join the French fashion house next month and show his first collection on the runway in February for the fall season.
Laying the groundwork for the change in creative leadership, Rykiel has opted to cancel its show, which had been scheduled for Sept. 28 during Paris Fashion Week, and will instead present the spring collection to buyers and press in its Paris showrooms.
Da Conceicao is currently a design director at Louis Vuitton in women’s ready-to-wear. He held a similar post at Miu Miu from 2006 to 2011. Before that, he held a variety of senior design positions at Yves Saint Laurent, starting in 1998 and working under Alber Elbaz, Tom Ford and later Stefano Pilati. He also worked as a senior designer at Martine Sitbon early in his career.
The design appointment follows a change in ownership and management of Rykiel, known for its striped knitwear and Left Bank insouciance.
“We are opening a new chapter for the company,” Jean-Marc Loubier, chairman at Rykiel and president of Fung Brands, said in an interview. “We are sure [da Conceicao] will be able to take the Rykiel woman and make her international.”
Loubier has reorganized management to ready the company for its global push, appointing Sophie Templier, formerly at Chloé, as product and merchandising director, and naming a new commercial director, Eric Rousseau, who joins Rykiel from Jean Paul Gaultier. Rousseau previously worked under Loubier when he was ceo at Celine.
Last year, Sonia Rykiel posted sales of about 90 million euros, or $125.5 million at average exchange rates. Loubier noted that roughly half the business is done outside of France, a ratio the company hopes to bump up with a revamped first line and the accessories category.
April Crichton, who was named creative director last September, is expected to exit the fashion house. A graduate of Central Saint Martins in London, Crichton worked alongside founder Sonia Rykiel and helped to develop the contemporary Sonia by Sonia Rykiel line.
Fung Brands Ltd. is a subsidiary of Fung Capital Ltd., the investment arm of the families of Hong Kong-based Victor Fung and William Fung, who separately control the Li & Fung Group.
Fung Brands also holds majority stakes in French shoe brand Robert Clergerie and Belgian leather goods concern Delvaux.
Donatella Versace will receive the International Award at the 2018 @cfda awards, which were announced tonight. Tap link in bio for a list of all the nominees and honorees. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @rahirezvanistudio )
The 2018 @cfda Awards nominees are out! @virgilabloh for @off____white for is nominated for Womenswear Designer of the Year. Tap link in bio for all the nominees. #wwdnews #wwdfashion ( 📷: @simonelezzi)
@chanelofficial is suing high-end vintage retailer @whatgoesaroundnyc for trademark infringement, a move that could cost the retailer millions. The French fashion house claims that it’s not only unintentionally sold counterfeit goods on occasion, but that it’s “gone out of its way to create an association with Chanel,” which does not exist. Read Chanel’s statement on WWD.com #wwdnews (@aitorrosasphoto)
Exclusive: Guillaume Henry has left @ninaricci, the fashion house said on Thursday. “After three years of mutually gratifying creative collaboration, Nina Ricci and Guillaume Henry have together decided that the designer will depart the house after the presentation of the fall-winter 2018-19 collection,” Ricci said in a statement. Get all the details on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
“When Bella enters a room all heads turn,” said @peterphilipsmakeup, creative and image director for @diormakeup. Last night, the two celebrated the product launch of Dior’s Lacquer Plump in Los Angeles with other celebs like @parisjackson, @winnieharlow and more. Head to WWD.com to see the rest of the photos from the night (📷: @chelsealaurenla) #wwdeye
“These shirts are an art form, it’s about getting the message out to as many people as you can. It breaks down the pretentiousness of the art gallery,” says Kumasi Sadiki, cofounder of @ebayontheblock, a store that sells merchandise by New York artists who are shifting their attention to clothes as a wearable medium. Pictured here is a design by artist @joegarvey_, one of the first to spearhead this movement. Head to WWD.com to read @mistywhitesidell full story on how their designs have become merch for the underground elite #wwdfashion
@netaporter is dedicating a part of its website – called the Fine Jewelry and Watch Destination – to highlight its high-end jewelry. The hub will feature products on the site, as well as incorporate styling advice and educational content about high-priced jewelry items. Get more details on WWD.com. #wwdaccessories
For “The Cher Show,” an upcoming musical based on @cher’s life and career, @bobmackie is once again collaborating with the singer in designing the costumes. For decades, Mackie has designed glitzy stage costumes and red carpet looks for the 71-year-old Grammy winner. Pictured here is a sketch of some of the pieces in the wardrobe of the musical, which is set to debut in Chicago on June 12 before making its way to Broadway #wwdeye