Black had a strong presence, along with some grays and neutrals, as designers favored simple palettes for jackets with a men's wear flavor and dresses with more feminine silhouettes.
Akris: The show notes at Akris promised "a new softness." But Albert Kriemler's take on softness is still as razor-sharp as ever. The designer built on last season's linear motifs and brought them down a thematic notch for a more polished and refined fall outing. There is no denying Kriemler's knack for sharp tailoring, proved here in spades with lean stovepipe pants, perfectly fitted jackets and trim, crisp coats in a mostly muted palette of neutrals, grays and browns. It shone through, as well, in his spare-but-exacting military cuts. Kriemler made a strong and solid case for a narrow, elongated — not to mention polite — silhouette, at times accessorized with an ultralong scarf. That linear notion was repeated in everything from tight knife pleats to vertical strips on sheaths. But it's here, in the tricked-out trappings, that the message got muddled. Ditto for some of the eveningwear with fussy flourishes, which don't seem suited to the traditional Akris customer.
Costume National: Austere with a futuristic edge: That was Ennio Capasa's leitmotif in a collection rife with viable options for girls looking for a dark edge. Skirts came with a sculpted wavelike detail at the back or pleated, darted and paired with fitted tunics. Tailoring was a major story, with high-waisted trousers and sleek coats offsetting modernist dresses with three-dimensional folds. Capasa, who worked mostly in black, white and blue, called the show Galaxy Couture, though there weren't many flights of fancy. But the designer knows how to keep his feet on the ground.
Andrew Gn: Opulent finery is right up Andrew Gn's alley. His beautiful and intricate collection catered to a certain uptown gal (the kind who still lunches and relies on her personal assistant to pick up the clothes from the cleaners). A cashmere coat with basket-weave collar and cuffs? Gn's got that. How about a jacket with mink trim? Check. Crave a delicate lace coat? Gn's your man. The designer said Oscar Wilde's dandy style inspired the likes of a chic Edwardian jacket and silk blouses with just the right dose of ruffles. Sleek trousers paired with coats with frayed braiding decoration and long, elegant satin gowns, one with shimmering embroidery at the bust, further underscored why Gn has become the go-to guy with the social set, who love his couture-inspired clothes.
Loewe: A lilac asymmetric bustier gown in butter-soft napa was one fine indication of the direction in which Loewe's new creative director, Stuart Vevers, wants to take the Spanish leather goods house, lightening up its core pieces. The styling of his first collection's 20 looks further underlined the point, pairing an old-school, full black lace skirt with a slim gold and chocolate lamé blouse, for example, or boyish riding boots with a ladylike silk faille bow dress. Men's wear references were rife, seen in a chunky alpaca wool jacket, say; wool pleat-front pants, or a green leather parka worn over a mini. Of the broad leather goods assortment, highlights included a toffee-hued ponyskin handbag hand-painted with the line's signature scarf motif, as well as an oversize ostrich travel bag in deep navy.
Azzaro: Vanessa Seward has made sultry glamour her calling card. The designer continued to turn up the heat at Azzaro via sexy minidresses with plunging backs and beguiling Empire-waist gowns dappled with rhinestones. Tunic minidresses, halter styles and a short jacquard lamé number rounded out Seward's seductive looks.
“What he has done at Vuitton is really exceptional,” said @gameofthrones’ actress Gwendoline Christie on @mrkimjones’ final show for @louisvuitton. “He has rebooted luxury in terms of making it commercial, viable and contemporary. And most importantly artistic. He has never compromised his artistic vision for the sake of commodity.” (📷: @zefashioninsider)
After seeing a demand for men’s wear from its customers, British contemporary women’s wear label @ariesarise has added a men’s wear component and will launch a unisex collection with @mrporterlive. The 20-piece collection includes jackets, denim, logo T-shirts and more with deconstructed ‘90s vibes. Set to launch on January 18, you can shop the pieces on Aries’ website and on mrporter.com. #wwdfashion
“And so spending so much time with a character who thinks like that, inevitability you try and analyze yourself and go back and think about your own demons and dark chapters that you had in your life,” says @thedanielbruhl of his role in TNT’s “The Alienist.” The show, set in the Gilded Age of New York, also stars Dakota Fanning and Luke Evans. Head to WWD.com to read about how 39-year-old Brühl prepared for the role and why he thinks the show is so relevant to today #wwdeye ( 📷: @Eriktanner)
Now that Celine Dion’s collection has topped $10 million in sales, the pop superstar, fashion icon and newly-minted industry player is eyeing growth in Asia. Read the full report by @tiffanyap, link in bio. #wwdnews #celinedion
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
Among the familiar faces at @off____white’s show was a surprise figure: Japanese artist @takashipom, pictured here on Wednesday morning. Other show-goers included @jerrylorenzo, who spoke about his upcoming project: a @nike collaboration for back to school, with designs inspired by his childhood on the West Coast. Sitting in the front row were Future, Don Crawley, @miguel and more. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: Stephane Feugere)
According to @laurentsai, former “Terrace House: Aloha State” cast member, she didn’t know she was auditioning for the Japanese version of “Real World.” “I was telling a couple of my friends and someone’s like, ‘That sounds a lot like Terrace House.’ I was like, ’No it can’t be.’” Turns out, it was. But Tsai isn’t just a reality star — she’s an illustrator who has worked with Starbucks Japan and most recently, she’s dipping her toes into the fashion world. Head to WWD.com to read about her time on the show, modeling and her art. #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
More changes are coming to New York Fashion Week: Beginning with the spring 2019 collection, @alexanderwangny will move his New York show to June from September, adopting a biannual schedule with collections shown in June and December. Additionally, the @cfda is planning for an official summer/winter fashion season taking place as soon as June and December 2018. Read more about the upcoming changes on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @slovekinpics)