Black had a strong presence, along with some grays and neutrals, as designers favored simple palettes for jackets with a men's wear flavor and dresses with more feminine silhouettes.
Akris: The show notes at Akris promised "a new softness." But Albert Kriemler's take on softness is still as razor-sharp as ever. The designer built on last season's linear motifs and brought them down a thematic notch for a more polished and refined fall outing. There is no denying Kriemler's knack for sharp tailoring, proved here in spades with lean stovepipe pants, perfectly fitted jackets and trim, crisp coats in a mostly muted palette of neutrals, grays and browns. It shone through, as well, in his spare-but-exacting military cuts. Kriemler made a strong and solid case for a narrow, elongated — not to mention polite — silhouette, at times accessorized with an ultralong scarf. That linear notion was repeated in everything from tight knife pleats to vertical strips on sheaths. But it's here, in the tricked-out trappings, that the message got muddled. Ditto for some of the eveningwear with fussy flourishes, which don't seem suited to the traditional Akris customer.
Costume National: Austere with a futuristic edge: That was Ennio Capasa's leitmotif in a collection rife with viable options for girls looking for a dark edge. Skirts came with a sculpted wavelike detail at the back or pleated, darted and paired with fitted tunics. Tailoring was a major story, with high-waisted trousers and sleek coats offsetting modernist dresses with three-dimensional folds. Capasa, who worked mostly in black, white and blue, called the show Galaxy Couture, though there weren't many flights of fancy. But the designer knows how to keep his feet on the ground.
Andrew Gn: Opulent finery is right up Andrew Gn's alley. His beautiful and intricate collection catered to a certain uptown gal (the kind who still lunches and relies on her personal assistant to pick up the clothes from the cleaners). A cashmere coat with basket-weave collar and cuffs? Gn's got that. How about a jacket with mink trim? Check. Crave a delicate lace coat? Gn's your man. The designer said Oscar Wilde's dandy style inspired the likes of a chic Edwardian jacket and silk blouses with just the right dose of ruffles. Sleek trousers paired with coats with frayed braiding decoration and long, elegant satin gowns, one with shimmering embroidery at the bust, further underscored why Gn has become the go-to guy with the social set, who love his couture-inspired clothes.
Loewe: A lilac asymmetric bustier gown in butter-soft napa was one fine indication of the direction in which Loewe's new creative director, Stuart Vevers, wants to take the Spanish leather goods house, lightening up its core pieces. The styling of his first collection's 20 looks further underlined the point, pairing an old-school, full black lace skirt with a slim gold and chocolate lamé blouse, for example, or boyish riding boots with a ladylike silk faille bow dress. Men's wear references were rife, seen in a chunky alpaca wool jacket, say; wool pleat-front pants, or a green leather parka worn over a mini. Of the broad leather goods assortment, highlights included a toffee-hued ponyskin handbag hand-painted with the line's signature scarf motif, as well as an oversize ostrich travel bag in deep navy.
Azzaro: Vanessa Seward has made sultry glamour her calling card. The designer continued to turn up the heat at Azzaro via sexy minidresses with plunging backs and beguiling Empire-waist gowns dappled with rhinestones. Tunic minidresses, halter styles and a short jacquard lamé number rounded out Seward's seductive looks.
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews
“Stranger Things” is getting a new cast member for season 2. Meet @sadiesink_, the 15-year-old who will be joining the Netflix series for its new season. You may recognize her from “The Glass Castle” with Brie Larson and Woody Harrelson, but the Texas native’s next role goes in an entirely different direction. She describes her character, Max, as “a rough and tumble skater girl [who] becomes friends with the boys at school.” The second season debuts on October 27. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdeye
Amid the Harvey Weinstein controversy, there’s another sector that’s being put under the spotlight for sexual abuse: the modeling industry. While rumors about abuse and sexual harassment of female and male models — and the photographers, agents and others who perpetrated it — have circulated within the fashion world for years, model @cameronrussell started posting stories from models on Instagram last week about abusive situations they’ve encountered — from sexual harassment and molestation to attempted rape. Over 75 have weighed in so far. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews
To celebrate its 16th anniversary, @dylanscandybar tapped designers and celebrities to create mosaics out of candy. The mosaics will be auctioned off to support the philanthropic cause of each participant’s choice. Pictured here is the mural created by @aliceandolivia's Stacey Bendet. For a first look at some of the other artwork being unveiled tonight, go to WWD.com. #wwdeye
The annual Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic in Pacific Palisades this weekend drew Kate Hudson, Tracee Ellis Ross, Laura Dern and more. See pictures of the star-studded event on WWD.com. (📷: @chelsealaurenla) #wwdeye
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye