By  on February 28, 2008

Black had a strong presence, along with some grays and neutrals, as designers favored simple palettes for jackets with a men's wear flavor and dresses with more feminine silhouettes.

Akris: The show notes at Akris promised "a new softness." But Albert Kriemler's take on softness is still as razor-sharp as ever. The designer built on last season's linear motifs and brought them down a thematic notch for a more polished and refined fall outing. There is no denying Kriemler's knack for sharp tailoring, proved here in spades with lean stovepipe pants, perfectly fitted jackets and trim, crisp coats in a mostly muted palette of neutrals, grays and browns. It shone through, as well, in his spare-but-exacting military cuts. Kriemler made a strong and solid case for a narrow, elongated — not to mention polite — silhouette, at times accessorized with an ultralong scarf. That linear notion was repeated in everything from tight knife pleats to vertical strips on sheaths. But it's here, in the tricked-out trappings, that the message got muddled. Ditto for some of the eveningwear with fussy flourishes, which don't seem suited to the traditional Akris customer.

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