Black had a strong presence, along with some grays and neutrals, as designers favored simple palettes for jackets with a men's wear flavor and dresses with more feminine silhouettes.
Akris: The show notes at Akris promised "a new softness." But Albert Kriemler's take on softness is still as razor-sharp as ever. The designer built on last season's linear motifs and brought them down a thematic notch for a more polished and refined fall outing. There is no denying Kriemler's knack for sharp tailoring, proved here in spades with lean stovepipe pants, perfectly fitted jackets and trim, crisp coats in a mostly muted palette of neutrals, grays and browns. It shone through, as well, in his spare-but-exacting military cuts. Kriemler made a strong and solid case for a narrow, elongated — not to mention polite — silhouette, at times accessorized with an ultralong scarf. That linear notion was repeated in everything from tight knife pleats to vertical strips on sheaths. But it's here, in the tricked-out trappings, that the message got muddled. Ditto for some of the eveningwear with fussy flourishes, which don't seem suited to the traditional Akris customer.
Costume National: Austere with a futuristic edge: That was Ennio Capasa's leitmotif in a collection rife with viable options for girls looking for a dark edge. Skirts came with a sculpted wavelike detail at the back or pleated, darted and paired with fitted tunics. Tailoring was a major story, with high-waisted trousers and sleek coats offsetting modernist dresses with three-dimensional folds. Capasa, who worked mostly in black, white and blue, called the show Galaxy Couture, though there weren't many flights of fancy. But the designer knows how to keep his feet on the ground.
Andrew Gn: Opulent finery is right up Andrew Gn's alley. His beautiful and intricate collection catered to a certain uptown gal (the kind who still lunches and relies on her personal assistant to pick up the clothes from the cleaners). A cashmere coat with basket-weave collar and cuffs? Gn's got that. How about a jacket with mink trim? Check. Crave a delicate lace coat? Gn's your man. The designer said Oscar Wilde's dandy style inspired the likes of a chic Edwardian jacket and silk blouses with just the right dose of ruffles. Sleek trousers paired with coats with frayed braiding decoration and long, elegant satin gowns, one with shimmering embroidery at the bust, further underscored why Gn has become the go-to guy with the social set, who love his couture-inspired clothes.
Loewe: A lilac asymmetric bustier gown in butter-soft napa was one fine indication of the direction in which Loewe's new creative director, Stuart Vevers, wants to take the Spanish leather goods house, lightening up its core pieces. The styling of his first collection's 20 looks further underlined the point, pairing an old-school, full black lace skirt with a slim gold and chocolate lamé blouse, for example, or boyish riding boots with a ladylike silk faille bow dress. Men's wear references were rife, seen in a chunky alpaca wool jacket, say; wool pleat-front pants, or a green leather parka worn over a mini. Of the broad leather goods assortment, highlights included a toffee-hued ponyskin handbag hand-painted with the line's signature scarf motif, as well as an oversize ostrich travel bag in deep navy.
Azzaro: Vanessa Seward has made sultry glamour her calling card. The designer continued to turn up the heat at Azzaro via sexy minidresses with plunging backs and beguiling Empire-waist gowns dappled with rhinestones. Tunic minidresses, halter styles and a short jacquard lamé number rounded out Seward's seductive looks.
Taking the final spot on the mens’ portion of New York Fashion Week calendar next month will be none other than @tomford. Though he’s shown his men’s wear in New York in the past, this will mark the first time the designer has shown his men’s collection alone during New York Fashion Week: Men’s. His runway show will debut on February 6 at the Park Avenue Armory. #wwdfashion
London-based couture house @ralphandrusso has certainly been in the spotlight, having its dresses worn by @beyonce, Angelina Jolie, Meghan Markle in her engagement photos and more. For couture, Tamara Ralph focused on ornamentation — think: feathers with chain mail, jet embroidery and clusters of pearls and crystals. See the rest of the collection on WWD.com #wwdfashion #couture (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
Minnie Mouse celebrated her 90th birthday by getting her own star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame. For her celebratory luncheon, @coach’s creative director @stuartvevers dressed her in a custom made prairie dress, complete with Vever’s take on the polka dot – black sequined versions – under a cropped motorcycle jacket. The designer also put his own mark on Minnie’s classic red shoes, infusing the color with sparkles and adding some Coach crystals. “We chose colors that were very Minnie and also represented quintessential Coach elements,” said Vevers. #wwdfashion #nationalpolkadotday (📷: George Chinsee)
@nickjonas is unveiling his first-ever apparel collection through a partnership with John Varvatos. The limited-edition capsule, which makes its debut in spring, also marks the first time the designer has collaborated with anyone on a line. “The process in working with Nick is amazing. It’s inspiring to be around someone who is not only connected with the trade that they do, but also with what’s happening in the environment around him, and how that connects to what we do with style,” said Varvatos. (RG: @johnvarvatos) #wwdfashion
@margotrobbie steps out onto the red carpet wearing @miumiu. The actress is nominated for “Outstanding Performance by a Female Actor in a Leading Role” in “I, Tonya” at the #SagAwards. (📷: Stewart Cook) #wwdfashion
For @massimogiorgetti of @msgm, the Nineties are his favorite decade. “They had a huge impact on my personal growth. What I like of the Nineties is that they are not so precise in terms of style as other decades…there was actually a bit of everything,” he said. As seen on MSGM’s Spring 2018 show: tie-dye and a bit of grunge, two styles that are synonymous with the decade #wwdfashion #wwddecades (📷: @kukukuba)