With his first collection for Agnona, Stefano Pilati swiftly advanced the venerable brand into a seasonless collection that could be purchased on the spot during Milan Fashion Week.
“I always thought that when something is beautiful, a six-month wait for the purchase can be too long. If I see something that I like, I want to buy it right away,” explained Pilati, who is numbering the collections, starting with Zero for the September offer.
The collection was displayed in a work-in-progress store on Milan’s tony Via Sant’Andrea with builders’ notes scribbled on the raw walls and unique white mannequins with lamb limbs—a reference to the brand’s original core wool and cashmere business. The unit was developed by Pilati with the Cologne, Germany-based design studio Meiré und Meiré. The designer said he was “interested in experimenting” with the store as a reference point. He decided to avoid a more traditional runway show or presentation to eliminate the “distance and especially the wait.”
Agnona is the 30 million euro ($40.5 million) women’s niche brand owned by men’s powerhouse Ermenegildo Zegna Group. The former Yves Saint Laurent creative director started Jan. 1 in the same role at Agnona and as head of design at Ermenegildo Zegna, with responsibility for that brand’s fashion show as well as for the Ermenegildo Zegna Couture lineup.
Pilati was respectful of the 60-year-old Agnona’s heritage, but at the same time irreverent enough to scissor the finest cottons into a chunky fringe and cut raw silks and double-faced cashmeres into asymmetric forms. Other fabrics included double silk, viscose Japon or Crepe Romain silk, as well as a classic masculine kid mohair used for Agnona in a double version.
Pilati noted that this was the first time he’s presented a collection as a creative director in Milan. “I would say that it was a good experience. Agnona is really a work in progress. Surely in February we will do something during women’s fashion week, and the seasonless element will remain as the collection’s attitude. However, I don’t rule out that Agnona will have something else to say before February.”
EXCLUSIVE: Two and half months after John Targon, cofounder and codesigner of Baja East, was hired as creative director of the contemporary division at Marc Jacobs, he has left the company, WWD has learned. Marc Jacobs International, which is owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, confirmed Targon’s departure in a statement: “John Targon is a talented designer and we appreciate the work he has done here. Ultimately working together did not make sense for the brand and we wish him the best.” Read the story by @jessiredale, link in bio. #wwdnews
@theluxurycollection is officially launching a collection, tapping Sofia Sanchez de Betak for the capsule. Over 30 styles will be featured in the Chufy x The Luxury Collection, debuting next month at Bergdorf Goodman, The Webster, FiveStory and more. De Betak, known as “@chufy,” drew inspiration for the collection from her trips to Japan in the past year #wwdfashion
@lhd, founder and CEO of @thewebster, has teamed up with @lebonmarcherivegauche for the European launch of her ready-to-wear line, LHD. The launch will come with an exclusive pop-up opening today that’s set to run through May 20. Located on the second floor, it carries her debut Miami-themed resort collection, launched in November as see-now-buy-now. #wwdfashion
@longchamp, which marks its 70th anniversary this year, just opened its biggest U.S. store on Manhattan’s Fifth Avenue. On the lower level there’s a floor-to-ceiling display of the brand’s iconic Le Pliage bag – in all of its different colors, shapes and sizes. Customers can also have their product personalized in-store by imprinting names, initials or emblems. #wwdfashion (📷: @ericmtownsend)
“Whenever I’m in that place of sound and music, I don’t have fear or nervousness…This album has a lot of themes of courage and boldness and I want to be the soundtrack for people’s lives. I’ll be so happy if [my songs] evoke strength in people, which I know music has done for me,” says @kimbramusic of her newest album “Primal Heart.” The New Zealand-born singer sat down with WWD to talk about her music, newest tour and connecting with hear fans — read more on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
Luxury handbag resale company @rebagofficial is planning to sell a rare collectible for $70,000: the @hermes White Crocodile Himalayan Birkin. The exclusive Birkin sold for about $100,000 in 2008, when @davidbeckham bought one for his wife @victoriabeckham to add to her collection. Read more about the rare Birkin on WWD.com #wwdaccessories
With her costume pearl necklace and what-you-see-is-what-you-get style, Barbara Bush, who died Tuesday at age 92, was a straight-shooter from start to finish.
Born Barbara Pierce in New York City, Bush served as the 37th first lady, as well as the country’s second lady from 1981 to 1989. In addition to being part of the longest presidential marriage — 73 years — Bush also had the unlikely distinction of having one son, George W., become the 43rd president and another son, Jeb, run unsuccessfully in 2016. Having served as second lady during the Reagan administration’s two terms and lived all over the world during her own husband’s ascending political career, Barbara Bush made it clear that literacy — not fashion — was her priority. Read more from Rosemary Feitelberg’s obituary on the late First Lady in WWD.com, link in bio. #barbarabush #wwdnews
Western and ’90s trends have influenced denim for fall 2018. Think raw, dark and coated jeans mixed with bold prints and tough leather. #trendtuesdays #wwdfashion (Styled by @thealexbadia;📷: @ryanplett)