With his first collection for Agnona, Stefano Pilati swiftly advanced the venerable brand into a seasonless collection that could be purchased on the spot during Milan Fashion Week.
“I always thought that when something is beautiful, a six-month wait for the purchase can be too long. If I see something that I like, I want to buy it right away,” explained Pilati, who is numbering the collections, starting with Zero for the September offer.
The collection was displayed in a work-in-progress store on Milan’s tony Via Sant’Andrea with builders’ notes scribbled on the raw walls and unique white mannequins with lamb limbs—a reference to the brand’s original core wool and cashmere business. The unit was developed by Pilati with the Cologne, Germany-based design studio Meiré und Meiré. The designer said he was “interested in experimenting” with the store as a reference point. He decided to avoid a more traditional runway show or presentation to eliminate the “distance and especially the wait.”
Agnona is the 30 million euro ($40.5 million) women’s niche brand owned by men’s powerhouse Ermenegildo Zegna Group. The former Yves Saint Laurent creative director started Jan. 1 in the same role at Agnona and as head of design at Ermenegildo Zegna, with responsibility for that brand’s fashion show as well as for the Ermenegildo Zegna Couture lineup.
Pilati was respectful of the 60-year-old Agnona’s heritage, but at the same time irreverent enough to scissor the finest cottons into a chunky fringe and cut raw silks and double-faced cashmeres into asymmetric forms. Other fabrics included double silk, viscose Japon or Crepe Romain silk, as well as a classic masculine kid mohair used for Agnona in a double version.
Pilati noted that this was the first time he’s presented a collection as a creative director in Milan. “I would say that it was a good experience. Agnona is really a work in progress. Surely in February we will do something during women’s fashion week, and the seasonless element will remain as the collection’s attitude. However, I don’t rule out that Agnona will have something else to say before February.”
Taking the final spot on the mens’ portion of New York Fashion Week calendar next month will be none other than @tomford. Though he’s shown his men’s wear in New York in the past, this will mark the first time the designer has shown his men’s collection alone during New York Fashion Week: Men’s. His runway show will debut on February 6 at the Park Avenue Armory. #wwdfashion
London-based couture house @ralphandrusso has certainly been in the spotlight, having its dresses worn by @beyonce, Angelina Jolie, Meghan Markle in her engagement photos and more. For couture, Tamara Ralph focused on ornamentation — think: feathers with chain mail, jet embroidery and clusters of pearls and crystals. See the rest of the collection on WWD.com #wwdfashion #couture (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
Minnie Mouse celebrated her 90th birthday by getting her own star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame. For her celebratory luncheon, @coach’s creative director @stuartvevers dressed her in a custom made prairie dress, complete with Vever’s take on the polka dot – black sequined versions – under a cropped motorcycle jacket. The designer also put his own mark on Minnie’s classic red shoes, infusing the color with sparkles and adding some Coach crystals. “We chose colors that were very Minnie and also represented quintessential Coach elements,” said Vevers. #wwdfashion #nationalpolkadotday (📷: George Chinsee)
@nickjonas is unveiling his first-ever apparel collection through a partnership with John Varvatos. The limited-edition capsule, which makes its debut in spring, also marks the first time the designer has collaborated with anyone on a line. “The process in working with Nick is amazing. It’s inspiring to be around someone who is not only connected with the trade that they do, but also with what’s happening in the environment around him, and how that connects to what we do with style,” said Varvatos. (RG: @johnvarvatos) #wwdfashion
@margotrobbie steps out onto the red carpet wearing @miumiu. The actress is nominated for “Outstanding Performance by a Female Actor in a Leading Role” in “I, Tonya” at the #SagAwards. (📷: Stewart Cook) #wwdfashion
For @massimogiorgetti of @msgm, the Nineties are his favorite decade. “They had a huge impact on my personal growth. What I like of the Nineties is that they are not so precise in terms of style as other decades…there was actually a bit of everything,” he said. As seen on MSGM’s Spring 2018 show: tie-dye and a bit of grunge, two styles that are synonymous with the decade #wwdfashion #wwddecades (📷: @kukukuba)