With no fanfare, the theatrical and polarizing men’s designer Thom Browne is branching into women’s wear in his signature collection.
Browne has tested these waters before, selling a capsule collection at Barneys New York for a couple of seasons in 2007 and 2008. In addition, his made-to-measure business, based out of his New York shop, has always served a handful of female clients.
This time he’s taken a bigger step, designing a small collection (one rack’s worth of samples) and selling it to Barneys New York, Colette and 10 Corso Como Seoul for fall. The Thom Browne shop will carry the range as well.
“This time I have more time to focus on it,” Browne told WWD. “For September, it will be a bit bigger than before, with more styles within the categories, but very focused. In the next couple seasons it will become a fully developed collection.”
The designer, known for shaking up American men’s wear with his shrunken suits and avant-garde runway shows, sold a majority stake of his company to Japan’s Cross Company last year, and the partners are keen to sensibly extend the brand.
“This is something I really want to do and Cross is definitely supportive,” said Browne, who also talks about the relaunch of women’s in the June issue of the magazine WSJ. “I want to develop it the same way men’s developed — small at first, and evolving slowly.”
Browne believes the collection will look very familiar, with lots of his signatures.
“It’s very focused on jackets and trousers and outerwear. I think it’s what people expect from me, very men’s-inspired women’s clothing. Gray flannel, navy cashmere. Good, all-American men’s wear influence, but fitting in a cool feminine way. I want it to be very understandable. Personally, when I see it on the girls I think it looks so good. I like the idea of men’s tailoring on girls. It’s very strong and sexy in a nonovert way.”
Browne’s most significant experience in women’s is Black Fleece, the dual-gender collections that he has designed for Brooks Brothers for a few years.
This month Browne will hold his men’s show in Paris for the first time. Could a women’s show be far behind?
“I don’t know when, but definitely down the line,” he said. “You know me, I love to entertain.”
“What he has done at Vuitton is really exceptional,” said @gameofthrones’ actress Gwendoline Christie on @mrkimjones’ final show for @louisvuitton. “He has rebooted luxury in terms of making it commercial, viable and contemporary. And most importantly artistic. He has never compromised his artistic vision for the sake of commodity.” (📷: @zefashioninsider)
After seeing a demand for men’s wear from its customers, British contemporary women’s wear label @ariesarise has added a men’s wear component and will launch a unisex collection with @mrporterlive. The 20-piece collection includes jackets, denim, logo T-shirts and more with deconstructed ‘90s vibes. Set to launch on January 18, you can shop the pieces on Aries’ website and on mrporter.com. #wwdfashion
“And so spending so much time with a character who thinks like that, inevitability you try and analyze yourself and go back and think about your own demons and dark chapters that you had in your life,” says @thedanielbruhl of his role in TNT’s “The Alienist.” The show, set in the Gilded Age of New York, also stars Dakota Fanning and Luke Evans. Head to WWD.com to read about how 39-year-old Brühl prepared for the role and why he thinks the show is so relevant to today #wwdeye ( 📷: @Eriktanner)
Now that Celine Dion’s collection has topped $10 million in sales, the pop superstar, fashion icon and newly-minted industry player is eyeing growth in Asia. Read the full report by @tiffanyap, link in bio. #wwdnews #celinedion
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
Among the familiar faces at @off____white’s show was a surprise figure: Japanese artist @takashipom, pictured here on Wednesday morning. Other show-goers included @jerrylorenzo, who spoke about his upcoming project: a @nike collaboration for back to school, with designs inspired by his childhood on the West Coast. Sitting in the front row were Future, Don Crawley, @miguel and more. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: Stephane Feugere)
According to @laurentsai, former “Terrace House: Aloha State” cast member, she didn’t know she was auditioning for the Japanese version of “Real World.” “I was telling a couple of my friends and someone’s like, ‘That sounds a lot like Terrace House.’ I was like, ’No it can’t be.’” Turns out, it was. But Tsai isn’t just a reality star — she’s an illustrator who has worked with Starbucks Japan and most recently, she’s dipping her toes into the fashion world. Head to WWD.com to read about her time on the show, modeling and her art. #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
More changes are coming to New York Fashion Week: Beginning with the spring 2019 collection, @alexanderwangny will move his New York show to June from September, adopting a biannual schedule with collections shown in June and December. Additionally, the @cfda is planning for an official summer/winter fashion season taking place as soon as June and December 2018. Read more about the upcoming changes on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @slovekinpics)