NEW YORK — Having quietly been working for the past year as Tse’s creative director on a consultant basis, Tina Lutz has now officially joined the company in that role.
The cashmere label is counting on the New York-based, German-born designer to bring a fresh take to the brand as it strives to regain a foothold in the U.S. and European markets. With Lutz overseeing all product design and development, creative imagery and retail store design, Tse plans to start selling wholesale for fall 2014. Inspired in part by the Japanese sculptor and artist Hiroyuki Hamada, who lives in East Hampton, her first collection for Tse will be in its own stores this fall. Double-faced cashmere coats and jackets, as well as shearlings, are among the styles Lutz has designed.
Lutz had been on Tse’s radar for a while due to the knitwear skills she exhibited season after season with her signature label Lutz + Patmos, according to Tse’s brand director Eddie Murray. She and her former business partner Marcia Patmos parted ways in 2010. RELATED STORY: Tse Resort 2014 >>
During an interview Wednesday, Lutz referenced the Tse brand’s 24-year history, innovative knitwear and “amazing” archives. She will continue to work out of the design space above Tse’s Wooster Street store in SoHo, and report to Murray. He said he is keen for her to “take steps to bring Tse back to its core values. Now we are focused on rebuilding the business in the U.S. and Europe.”
Murray declined to pinpoint Tse’s sales volume today or in its prime in the mid-Aughts. Bolstering the company’s e-commerce business and introducing wholesale should increase sales by 25 to 30 percent, Murray said.
Some of Lutz’s objectives include using organic yarns, introducing sustainable practices, working with artisan collectives and collaborating with students from the Rhode Island School of Design (where Lutz teaches part time).
In the past few years, Tse rotated through such two-season collaborators as Jason Wu and Brian Reyes, and at one point had an in-house design team create the collection. Lutz’s grasp of knitwear, her passion for sustainability and social consciousness in regards to teaming up with artisans appealed to Tse executives. Before a 10-year run with her namesake label, Lutz worked at Barneys New York, Calvin Klein and Puma’s Nuala label, among others.
While many are aware of her knitwear expertise, Lutz said she likes being able to put her tailoring skills to use. After graduating from l’Ecole Supérieure des Arts et Techniques de la Mode in Paris, she started her career at Issey Miyake’s atelier and later joined the house’s Tokyo headquarters to focus on inventive tailoring, production and design.
When the company resumes wholesaling next fall after a three-year hiatus, the aim is to sell the collection to 25 to 30 premium specialty stores Stateside and internationally. There are currently Tse boutiques in New York, San Francisco and Chicago, a concept shop in Harvey Nichols and six stores in Asia. In February, a 2,000-square-foot store will make its debut in Shanghai. As a prelude to that opening, Martin Lidell has shot an ad campaign that will run in China this fall.
Murray described Lutz as “a long-term leader,” and she too sounded energized to be acting as the face of the brand beyond the design studio. “I will be visiting the stores, meeting with customers, doing whatever comes along,” she said.
@chanel and @pharrell dropped what’s being dubbed as the world’s most exclusive sneakers yesterday. The Adidas Originals NMD Hu, which Williams designed in collaboration with Chanel and @adidasoriginals, has a waiting list of over 120K people who pre-registered online at chanelatcolette.fr –– and only 500 pairs are on sale. The singer predicted the resale value of the shoes could reach $40K. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdfashion (📷: Dominique Maître)
@imanshumpert is diving deeper into his creative endeavors and relaunching his clothing line, Post 90s, and is helping to raise money for the hurricane victims in St. Maarten with a jersey he’s designed with his brother. The Cleveland Cavaliers player talked to WWD about kneeling during the national anthem, working with fashion brands and how he wants to be more than an @nba player. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
Not only does #TheProfit return to CNBC tonight, but @marcuslemonis has launched @shopmarcus, a new shopping and lifestyle retail experience in Aspen and Chicago, with more locations to come. The retail stores offer in-store stylists and a variety of contemporary womenswear selections.
“It’s life, I’m going to face it,” @mingxi11 sighed. “I fell, but you know, I think the most important thing is that I get back up. I had the love, the help from my sister — the girl next to me Gizele [Oliveira] — she’s so nice. When I went backstage everybody was trying to comfort me like ‘Oh Ming, it’s OK.’ I’m really, really touched. I think it’s them who gave me the courage to go back on stage for the finale,” Xi told WWD of her fall at the @victoriassecret fashion show. (📷: David Fisher) #wwdfashion #vsfashionshow #victoriassecret
@louisvuitton tapped @therealpeterlindbergh for its latest city-centric photo book, which is part of a series called Fashion Eye. The primarily black and white book captures the spirit of Berlin in 57 images shot between 1989 and 2019. “Berlin is an inspiration for me, more than a city. I mean @millajovovich is simply Berlin!” said Lindbergh. #wwdfashion
“You know, I think audiences expect a certain performance so I have to deliver to them what they’re expecting to a certain degree. But I’m also a different actor and a different person, I have my own spin on the character,” says @noahegalvin of his takeover of the leading role in “Dear Evan Hansen” following the departure of @bensplatt, who originated the role. Read WWD’s interview with the 23-year-old actor on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
For pre-fall 2018, @etro created richly-colored wonderland, using tapestries, textiles and wallpapers from the Eastern world at large. The line featured floral and graphic prints and jacquard motifs, like this two-piece look featured here. #wwdfashion (📷: Giovanna Pavesi)
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)