Kate Middleton certainly epitomized the princess bride, but her look isn’t for every woman headed down the aisle. In fact, many brides are abandoning any trace of a fairy-tale motif in order to maintain their everyday sense of style.
Designers, of course, many of whom have ready-to-wear collections, are more than happy to oblige. At the recent bridal shows, Vera Wang, for one, went so far as to offer 15 gowns in black and nude. Nicole Miller took more of an eveningwear route, serving up such understated styles as a strapless allover sequin gown. “My brides aren’t about froufrou, they aren’t about fitting the bridal mold,” said Miller. “They want their personality and personal style to shine through on their big day.”
Lela Rose president Karen Scheck couldn’t agree more. “A bride wants to look like herself on her wedding day, and not step too far out of the box of what she normally wears,” she said, adding that the firm is about to shoot its first bridal ad campaign, to be styled by Tina Chai and shot by Steven Pan.
Rose’s wedding gown line, along with that of Oscar de la Renta, Carolina Herrera, Jenny Packham, Reem Acra and Marchesa, drew upon fabrics and motifs from their signature collections. “We want to bring the same things to our bridal customer that we bring to our ready-to-wear customers,” said de la Renta, whose latest bridal line includes 13 shoe styles. “The two collections are made in exactly the same way. We use the same fabrics, the same embroiderers, the same sample-makers, and the same techniques.”
Marchesa co-designer Georgina Chapman said her wedding gowns are always a continuation of the label’s eveningwear, and this collection, she notes, “stays true to the ethereal, feminine mood we have been feeling this season.”
Marchesa’s fitted lace mermaidlike gown was one of the all-time standouts for Mark Ingram, whose New York atelier specializes in designer labels. “All of the designers really took a step back and looked at where the market is now. They got artful,” he said.
Even the more extended color palette, like blush at Monique Lhuillier or blues at Romona Keveza, seemed to be derivative of nonbridal clothes. “It’s not as though they just translated a dress from their collection for bridal,” said Kleinfeld owner Mara Urshel. “And blush works, so does apricot. We sell it when it’s done well.”
While black isn’t known as a go-to hue for brides, Wang said her undergarment-inspired “Witchcraft” themed presentation struck a chord with stores. With loads of natural light streaming into her new Madison Square Park showroom Sunday, guests at her runway show could zero in on the dégradé laddering detail, asymmetric sheared flange, hand-pieced Chantilly lace appliqué and other intricate touches. Editorially minded as the colors might have been, they appealed to buyers and indicated just how progressive some brides have become. “Many stores are writing order for the gowns in black and nude, even though all the styles will be issued in ivory as well,” Wang noted. “To me it was about a design concept and it turned out to be one that resonated with the stores.”
As for Herrera, she said her collection is “dedicated to all of the women who want to be unique on the day of their wedding.” She pointed to her Helena dress, a crinkle chiffon number with flutter sleeves and a crystal embroidered belt, as a look “for the bride who seeks a distinctive yet effortless gown with impeccable movement and style.”
@pantone announced their Color of the Year 2018: Ultra Violet. Nearly 20 months after the musician Prince’s death, fashion is having a purple moment. Varying shades of purple appeared on spring or fall runways, from @christopherkane to @calvinklein. @gucci’s Alessandro Michele bathed his fall runway in ultra violet-colored light at one point. Pantone 18-3838 is meant to “push the boundaries of what inspires us to look upward and outward to the future.” #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@badgalriri’s @fentybeauty launch in September was a massive success on social media, powering $72.9 million of earned media value, according to Tribe Dynamics. The brand’s foundation offering sparked conversations about diversity in beauty, launching the growth of emerging influencers and propelling the brand’s support on social media. Today, #fentybeauty won Launch of the Year at the WWD #BeautyIncAwards. (📷: Chema Moya/EPE-EFE)
@marianna_hewitt has become one of the most influential content creators in the beauty space, with almost 800,000 Instagram followers and a newly launched skin care line called @SummerFridays. Today, she was awarded Influencer of the Year at the WWD #BeautyIncAwards. (📸: @sophiachabbott )
As shopping behaviors evolve, the retail experience must follow. Head over to retail experts @colliersinternational’s Knowledge Leader series to read more about the shift in our shopping era. #colliersretail #lovecolliers
@prada opened a pop-up club, called Prada Double Club, in collaboration with German artist Cartsen Höller at @artbasel Miami. Last night, guests – including @youngparis, @ritaora and even Miuccia Prada herself – gathered in a former ice factory where the pop-up is housed for a performance from @wyclefjean. Go to WWD.com for full coverage on all the exhibits, parties and more at #ArtBaselMiami. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
@louboutinworld and @disney are making magic once again, creating a set of shoe designs for the release of “Star Wars: The Last Jedi.” Louboutin designed a pair of shoes for each of the film’s four female leads: Rey (@daisyridrey), Vice Admiral Amilyn Holdo (@lauradern), Captain Phasma (Gwendoline Christie) and Rose Tico (@kellymarietran). The shoes will debut on Saturday at the L.A. premiere of the latest episode. #wwdfashion
Today at the #BeautyIncAwards 2017, WWD will be joined by beauty leaders from around the world as we honor this year's most innovative people, products, brands and places. Follow along here and on Twitter for live coverage from the exclusive event. #wwdsummits (📷: @elizaflorendo)
Exclusive: Beauty superinfluencer @marianna_hewitt is launching her first-ever skin care brand with her business partner @laurengores. Their new line Summer Fridays, which will be sold exclusively at summerfridays.com starting in January, is launching with just one product – a hydrating cream Jet Lag Mask. “We wanted to focus on one product that was amazing,” said Hewitt. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews
Michelin star-rated chef PJ Calapa marks his first solo endeavor with today’s opening of @scampinyc –– the new Southern Italian restaurant located in Manhattans’ Flatiron District. The upscale yet welcoming environment matches the menu, which includes two types of scampi: traditional Italian langoustines in butter and the Americanized version with shrimp over pasta 🍤 - pictured here. #wwdeye (📷: George Chinsee)