Rather than risk letting Tod’s ready-to-wear collection get lost among the abundant accessories during its presentation in Milan, Derek Lam held a separate, by-appointment showing for the clothes Thursday in New York. “It’s a small collection and very focused,” said Lam. “I think it’s important to talk about why it’s so focused.”

Indeed, Lam stuck close to the house’s luxe leather and sporty standards with an outerwear-heavy lineup inspired by last year’s 40th anniversary of the lunar landing, which brought him back to 1969, when the clothes were “Space Age but retro Space Age,” he added. “There was nothing high-tech about them.” But Courrèges-like kitsch isn’t Tod’s style, so Lam worked a utility angle on an indigo shearling anorak with fox fur trim, an olive oil cloth trench and peacoat with leather details, which also appeared as panels on jersey dresses, or “Tod’s version of evening,” as Lam called it. For a more casual, but no-less-tony look, there were red jeans and men’s wear-inspired shirts done in crepe de chine with contrast collars and cuffs.

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