London designers worked nostalgia, fantasy and kids’ stuff into their collections, wringing smiles from weary, cold and ever-cynical fashion folk.
“Beautiful things should almost always be fun and make you smile—otherwise it can get too serious,” says Anya Hindmarch.
For her presentation, Hindmarch employed the services of the world-class domino expert Robin Paul Weijers—who goes by the name of Mr. Domino. He and a team of eight domino experts set up 50,000 small tiles over the course of a week, that fell to precision theatrically revealing her handbags and clutches that were inspired by the game, as well as backgammon. The actual show was about four minutes long.
Sophia Webster took to the realms of fantasy for her collection, which featured a handbag made from holographic leather in the shape of a unicorn. Modeled by girls decked in psychedelic catsuits and rainbow-colored, unicorn-inspired hair, or displayed on birdhouses in the snowy “forest,” Webster’s designs were dramatic but playful—especially the thigh-high, lace-up gladiator boots in hologram leather.
At Fashion East, Ryan Lo was inspired by the cutesy kitschiness of Hello Kitty and Sailor Moon, while Ashley Williams’ models carried teddy bears as handbags. Even London’s new king of conceptual cool, J.W. Anderson, got in on the game with a pinball machine print.
“I’m not averse to a bit of fantasy at all,” says Nicholas Kirkwood. He recently unveiled shoes for Selfridges inspired by Oz The Great And Powerful. “I had to create a shoe that would work well for each character, the good fairy and two wicked witches. It was great fun.”
So why all this frivolity now? Carmen Borgonovo, buying director at My-Wardrobe.com, offers, “Perhaps there is a subconscious desire for happiness, an escapism during a stagnant economy, but more importantly I think London designers always think out of the box and find inspiration in the most creative and personal places. There is a sense of comfort in childhood memories and unicorns, teddy bears and Hello Kitty are uplifting and positive references—so why not make them fashionable.”
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
For men’s fall 2018, @giuseppezanotti drew on elements from streetwear, sport, biker, combat and rock ‘n’ roll. Pictured here are a pair of shoes from the collection, featuring zippers, rhinestones, and silver hardware. Head to WWD.com to see a roundup of the accessories from Milan’s men’s fall 2018 shows. #wwdfashion (📷: Andrea Delb)
To celebrate the 25th anniversary of @ralphlauren’s snowboarding collection, the brand is mining its archives. The iconic brand is reintroducing vintage styles and dropping new designs for a color capsule that will be available in Ralph Lauren stores and @openingceremony on January 25. The capsule will consist of 10 pieces, including the Snow Beach Pullover, pictured here, which is a collector’s item that rapper Raekwon wore in Wu-Tang Clan’s “Can It Be All So Simple” video. #wwdfashion (📷: Tom Gould)
For @rochasofficial’s pre-fall 2018 collection, creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua channeled the sophisticated and intriguing Catherine Denevue in the film “Belle de Jour.” Polished collarless coats, midi skirts, suits and ’60s graphic motifs were all featured in the collection, adding a sense of discreet luxury. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion
“We tried to produce clothing of that couture quality, but the most daunting part was that we only had a matter of days [to do it],” said costume designer Lou Eyrich, who recreated Gianni Versace’s iconic looks for @americancrimestoryfx. Eyrich searched online retailers and vintage shops for original pieces from the design house and for @penelopecruzoficial, who plays Donatella Versace. Head to WWD.com to read how she created the Versace world. #wwdfashion
Only three months after her stellar debut catwalk season, @kaiagerber has inked her first big design collaboration –– with @karllagerfeld. The collection blends Lagerfeld’s Parisian chic aesthetic and the model’s signature West Coast casual style via RTW, accessories, footwear and more. The #KarlLagerfeldxKaia collection will launch in September with a series of events. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
Harrods plans to remove the famous statue of Princess Diana and Dodi Al Fayed from the bottom of the Egyptian escalators and hand it back to Mohamed Al-Fayed. “We are very proud to have played our role in celebrating the lives of Diana, Princess of Wales and Dodi Al Fayed at Harrods and to have welcomed people from around the world to visit the memorial for the past 20 years,” said Michael Ward, Harrods managing director. “With the announcement of the new official memorial statue to Diana, Princess of Wales at Kensington Palace, we feel that the time is right to return this memorial to Mr. Al Fayed and for the public to be invited to pay their respects at the palace.” More on the news, with reporting by @loreleimarfil, at WWD.com. #wwdnews