PARIS — The international fashion press will have to wait several more months before catching a glimpse of the first Yves Saint Laurent designs by new creative director Hedi Slimane, WWD has learned.
Or they’ll have to go into retail.
Only buyers will be invited to see the women’s cruise and spring men’s wear collections, a YSL spokeswoman confirmed Monday.
Precise dates for the selling campaigns have yet to be determined, but should fall toward the end of June or early July. The spokeswoman described the two collections as “transitional.”
Slimane intends to make his first major fashion statement at the storied house this fall when he presents the women’s spring collection on the runway during Paris Fashion Week, scheduled for Sept. 25 to Oct. 3.
The designer, who electrified men’s fashion during his seven-year stint at Dior Homme, was appointed YSL’s new designer in February, succeeding Stefano Pilati. He first came to international attention as the designer of YSL Rive Gauche Homme in the late Nineties.
An exacting designer with strong ties to pop culture, Slimane is said to be working on the YSL collections and retail concepts in Los Angeles, where he relocated after exiting Dior Homme to pursue a career in commercial photography and art making.
His return to fashion design, along with Raf Simons’ appointment as Dior’s new couturier, promises to captivate the Paris fashion scene — and perhaps steal thunder from other major names that show in the French capital.
An art history graduate from the Ecole du Louvre, Slimane emerged from fashion’s shadows during his first stint at YSL, founded half a century ago this year. Hired as an assistant in fashion marketing at YSL in 1997 and then quickly promoted to designer, Slimane revved up the label’s men’s wear with androgynous tailoring: leather trenchcoats, pinch-waist suits and plunging shirts.
Slimane resigned from YSL in 2000 to pursue exclusive negotiations with its parent, then known as Gucci Group, for the launch of his own label. He ended up signing on with luxury rival Dior, embarking on an ambitious project that spanned glitzy fashion shows and minimalist boutiques.
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast