For years, Donna Karan has been vocal about wanting to show clothes in the season for which they’re designed. On Wednesday, she did just that, unveiling for fall Urban Zen, which was immediately available at the brand’s Greenwich Street store in New York. The designer focused on layered, draped and on-the-bias silhouettes in a palette of black with gray, navy or brown — clearly, her comfort zone.

Outerwear was a standout, particularly the padded down-filled suede pieces, including a belted jacket with an exaggerated jersey collar, which she paired with stretch suede pants. The vibe was cozy, especially when it came to the speckled cashmere sweater dress that looked like tweed and the bias-cut jersey tunic dress with a waxed suede panel at the hem. As Karan put it during the appointment, these looks should feel “like skin on skin.”

As for her strategy, she is already tweaking it slightly. Karan plans to show spring next month, though only to long-lead publications.


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