MILAN — The press shouldn’t expect to see the Valentino man during men’s fashion week in January, in Paris or Milan.
The Roman luxury label will not present its men’s wear collection this season in either city, opting solely for commercial appointments, a Valentino spokeswoman told WWD.
The disclosure follows Marni’s decision to forgo the runway, raising the specter of more gaps in the men’s wear calendar and other belt-tightening as the grip of the economic crisis tightens.
Although Valentino declined further comment, it’s clear the company is facing financial pressures.
Last year, at the height of the luxury boom, private equity firm Permira bought Valentino Fashion Group, which includes Valentino as well as Hugo Boss, Marlboro Classics and M Missoni, for an estimated 2.6 billion euros, or $3.55 billion.
Sources have estimated the financial crisis wiped off around 1 billion euros, or $1.27 billion, of VFG’s value.
Valentino also has endured turbulence at its flagship women’s department. In October, the company said longtime accessories duo Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli would become creative directors for all categories, succeeding ready-to-wear and couture designer Alessandra Facchinetti after only two seasons.
In May, Valentino chief executive officer Stefano Sassi said Italian designer Ferruccio Pozzoni’s first men’s collection had performed “very well” at his debut presentation in Valentino’s showroom in Place Vendome, which was repeated last July.
Sassi has said the men’s category for the group had “huge potential” and he planned to give men’s wear a “push.”
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)
@heriethpaul and @gracebol have a moment on the @victoriassecret fashion show 2017. See every look from the runway on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo) #wwdfashion #victoriassecret #VSFashionShow
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia