PARIS — Fans of Veronique Branquinho’s coolly feminine aesthetic, rejoice.
For her first collection in more than three years, due to show at Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday, the Belgian designer has stuck to her trademark mix of sharp tailoring mixed with flowing silhouettes. Boxy cotton poplin shirts feature kimono-inspired sleeves, while silk blouses and dresses combine elegance with ease.
“I was looking a lot for pure shapes to start again,” said Branquinho, referring to the relaunch of her collection with Italian manufacturer Gibò Co SpA. “I wanted to create a collection for a grown-up woman who was sexy and strong, and could be fragile at the same time, because for me, it’s not a weakness to be fragile.”
Tailoring was given added fluidity through the use of natural materials like cool wool or a bamboo textile.
“It’s part of my DNA to have some masculine-inspired suiting, so there are different kinds of pants,” she noted. Black and white horizontal stripes were used to graphic effect on dresses, including a floor-length pleated bustier number.
The color palette features variations on nude and tangerine, with accents of dark green and a couple of light cotton indigo pieces. Embellishments included copper elements ranging from cuff bracelets to beaded horizontal bands on a flapper-style dress, while some shoes came with tiger eye embroidery.
A Stella McCartney sketch of a custom dress made from protein-based silk in partnership with biotech lab Bolt Threads. The dress will be displayed at The Museum of Modern Art's upcoming design exhibition, "Items: Is Fashion Modern?"