PARIS — Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren are not the types to do things by half measure or without a surprising twist, having designed ruffled collars a foot deep and bulbous silhouettes inspired by nuclear explosions. So for their newest fragrance, the duo went for a Spicebomb, a spicy masculine counterpart to their women’s floral fragrance hit Flowerbomb, introduced in 2005.
Spicebomb, created with the Viktor & Rolf fragrance licensee L’Oréal, will come out toward the end of January. It is the second men’s scent the brand has launched.
“We were jealous of all the women who had Flowerbomb, and we wanted to have our own bomb,” said Horsting.
“We felt that if flowers were a very typical feminine scent, spices were the masculine opposite,” continued Snoeren.
Therein the name Spicebomb was born.
The Dutch designers asked International Flavors & Fragrances perfumer Olivier Polge to marry spicy with “something very sensual,” as Snoeren put it.
“Viktor and Rolf wanted an extroverted, outspoken fragrance,” said Polge. So he helped conceive the juice with two main diametrically opposed olfactive accords. The “addictive,” a “firey” one includes notes of chili, saffron, leather, tobacco and vetiver. The other is “explosive” and icier, with notes of bergamot, grapefruit, elemi and pink pepper (the latter being key).
No market testing was done on the fragrance.
Spicebomb’s bottle, created with Fabien Baron, is shaped like a grenade whose pin has attached to it the signature Viktor & Rolf seal.
The scent’s single- and double-page advertising, photographed by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, features model Sean O’Pry.
“Here the guy is playing with the bottle, like for Flowerbomb the woman is playing with the bottle,” said Horsting. “You really don’t know what’s going to happen, so there’s a certain tension. We wanted a certain classicism — that’s why it’s black and white. That’s why he has a classically beautiful body. But at the same time there is an action that is suggestive.”
As with Flowerbomb, there will be an important marketing push at points of sale.
“We will have what we call the exploding shelves,” said Richard Pinabel, international general manager of Viktor & Rolf Parfums, referring to merchandising units that make the scents look like they’ve been rocked by an explosion. On the outer packing of some bottles will be a sleeve with a hologram making the Spicebomb flacon look as if it has blown up.
Sampling will be extensive and creative, too, including blotters resembling matches.
“It’s very core, very important in the DNA of the brand to do things in a different and little bit spectacular way,” continued Pinabel, adding the idea is also to be whimsical.
“We want to make sure that it is an event every time Spicebomb is in store,” said Marc Rey, president of international designer collections at L’Oréal USA.
The scent will first be launched on Jan. 23 exclusively in Harrods in the U.K. and in Bijenkorf in the Netherlands. Then it is to be introduced elsewhere, including a mid-February debut in France and a March 1 kickoff in the U.S.
The fragrance will be carried in specialty stores in the U.S., including Nordstrom, Bloomingdale’s, Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue. It is to be in about 250 doors countrywide. (Flowerbomb, meanwhile, is in wider distribution there.)
Flowerbomb ranks ninth in women’s fragrance year-to-date and was eighth in September in the U.S. “It’s almost growing 20 percent this year,” said Rey.
The 90- and 50-ml. eau de toilette Spicebomb sprays will retail for $95 and $75, respectively. The 200-ml. shower gel is to be $28, and the 100-ml. aftershave balm, $48.
L’Oréal executives would not discuss sales projections, but industry sources estimate Spicebomb will generate 40 million euros, or $53.9 million at current exchange, in first-year retail sales worldwide.
The annual Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic in Pacific Palisades this weekend drew Kate Hudson, Tracee Ellis Ross, Laura Dern and more. See pictures of the star-studded event on WWD.com. (📷: @chelsealaurenla) #wwdeye
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye
"Nowadays when life is not so happy with everything going on in the world, I think people come to me for a little bit of whimsy and color and fun." - Designer Rebecca De Ravenel on her cult-favorite jewelry line. (📸 : @vsteves) #wwd40
“Everyone is talking about how the retail industry is struggling, but I think it’s an incredible time because brands who are doing something different and innovative are setting themselves up for the future,” said @adamgoldston, who founded the luxury athletic brand @apl with his brother @ryangoldsten. The Goldston’s are part of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables. See the rest of the list on WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
@eyeswoon blogger Athena Calderone debuted her first-ever cookbook, “Cook Beautiful,” which is heavily centered on the presentation and visual expression of food. Pictured here are her miso glazed carrots from the book. Get the recipe on WWD.com. (📷: @johnny_miller_) #wwdeye
“It’s passion that helps get anybody to a certain point and it’s what’s propelled me,” said Kith founder @ronniefieg, one of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables who are changing the face of retail, fashion and beauty. Fieg, who opened a Manhattan flagship on October 7, began his career at age 13 as a stock boy and salesman for footwear chain David Z. “I think staying true to [my] beliefs, hard work and passion have gotten me to where [Kith] is today.” See the rest of the 40 at WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
25-year-old @samweaving is about to break out this fall, starring in Netflix’s horror film “The Babysitter,” fittingly out today on Friday the 13th. That’s not the only place you’ll be seeing her, though — Weaving’s got a role Showtime’s “SMILF” and another alongside Frances McDormand and Woody Harrelson in “Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri.” Though she’s got a full plate at the moment, there’s one role she’s got her eye on: Marilyn Monroe. “I’m a little too young at the moment, but it’s on my bucket list,” the actress told WWD (📷: @dandoperalski) #wwdeye
BFF's Poppy Jamie and Suki Waterhouse celebrated the launch of their bag line Pop x Suki at Nordstrom last night. "The line is really about our friendship, and how we are so different but complement each other," said Waterhouse. 👯 (📷: Katie Jones) #wwdeye
After designing the new @louisvuitton and @bulgariofficial flagships and a @chanelofficial boutique opening in Japan, @petermarinoarchitect has another project on his plate: The Lobster Club. Located in the Seagram Building, it’s the famed architect’s first restaurant project in New York, serving up modern Japanese brasserie-style cuisine. Bronze hues, bespoke material detailing, blush and chartreuse tones and a heavy emphasis on Picasso can be seen throughout. Mark your calendars for Nov. 1 for the much-anticipated opening. (📷: @clint_spaulding) #wwdeye