PARIS — The pre-fall season enabled Vionnet and Azzaro to take the first steps toward new design directions under their new creative heads.
Barbara and Lucia Croce, who in October succeeded Rodolfo Paglialunga as Vionnet’s creative directors, said their pre-fall collection was an effort to establish new codes for the brand — femininity, fluidity and purity — while building on the heritage of founder Madeleine Vionnet. The twin sisters reworked a 1919 logo on bags, while V-shape necklines were inspired by archival looks from the Thirties. Still, the Croces are keen to make the collection relevant for today. Thus there were trousers for evening, such as the softly tailored tuxedo pants worn with a sleeveless top with a flowing silk georgette tail.
A Stella McCartney sketch of a custom dress made from protein-based silk in partnership with biotech lab Bolt Threads. The dress will be displayed at The Museum of Modern Art's upcoming design exhibition, "Items: Is Fashion Modern?"